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The Folding Knife (& Switchblade) Forum The materials, techniques and the designing of folding knives. |
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#1
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2 questions pivots and clip
My 3rd folder is WIP and almost done. What is the difference between the different types of pivots ? Any better for this or that type ? My button pivot seems to be too tight or not enough and my barrel pivot seems to not get tight enough. Is there a way to judge how think the barrel pivot should be ? Or any pivot should be ? I am using .125 scales, .1875 pivot ,.125 blade and .015 washers. (.156 standoffs) I assemble it without the scales and it seems to work fine and the washers seem to be flat on blade and liners.It operates fine. I was using a clip to keep it together.When I add in the scales and all it just seems to be off and something needs adjusting. I havent recessed the heads of the pivots yet though.Any suggestions ?
I designed a one piece billet clip from TI. I took a piece of 3/16 TI cut it .25 wide and about 3 inches long. I am going to round the ends, and cut a channel out of the area between the ends along the side . Make sense ? I was just wondering the pros and cons of this type clip. With no Mill its going to take me a bit to clear out that metal between then ends. Dave Last edited by Txcwboy; 06-12-2008 at 02:49 PM. |
#2
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Quote:
If the blade rotates on the bushing, the bushing must be at least the thickness of the blade plus the 2 washers. Hope this helps. I like that kind of clip and am thinking about making one like that from 440C spring heat treated for my next folder that needs it. |
#3
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QUOTE: "I was using a clip to keep it together."
Does that mean you had the two sides of the knife and the liner, if it's a liner lock, clipped together with some kind of clamp rather than assembled with the pins or screws you'll use for the final assembly? If so, that probably means the screw holes that are used with your stand-offs aren't quite lined up or perhaps the sides of your stand-offs aren't square and parallel to each other. QUOTE: "I havent recessed the heads of the pivots yet though." This further makes me believe that the screw holes for the stand-offs aren't well aligned. Every step you take will affect the way the parts line up. When you do countersink the pivot head there will be a subtle change in alignment (assuming that you aren't a professional machinist with decades of experience and therefore you will not do this perfectly). I'm not a machinist either so I use a process that works for the brain dead (such as myself) and eliminates most all of the possibility for this problem. If you think this type of mis-alignment might be the cause of your problem let me know and I'll describe the process but it won't help on this knife if the holes are already there... |
#4
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I think I got it. When I would assemble it with the scale simulators ( .125 thick micarta donuts) I wouldnt have any issues. Would work nice and lock wasnt too strong either.I put the lock side scale on and the problem starts. I must have bent the lock OUT too much and I sent the lock bar extending just over the other part of the liner. So when the scale was on it would push on it messing up the geometry of the whole thing. I had to grind it back down to its was level with the top side.I had trouble bending the .063 TI and must have over did it. Lesson learned. My thumb is sore from busting the lock loose so many times .
Are barrel pivots suppose to be used thru the scales ? or just under scales like a hidden pivot ? I dont like barrel pivots. I dont like having to set both screws. I had to grind one down .It may have been an issue too. Clip is moving slowly. Switched to a file, seems to be faster. I dont have the right set up for grinding away just the middle section. Thanks Don and Ray. Dave ( Ray, I met my wife online and imported her from Canada ! I was reading your story. Congrats !How is she liking your little bongolo in the wild ?) |
#5
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Barrel pivots can be used between the liners as Don described so that the length of the barrel is set to about .002 longer than the total thickness of the blade, washers, and liner. This way, you don't have to 'set' either screw - just tighten them snugly on both sides.
On the rare occasions I use barrel pivots I prefer to run the completely through the bolsters and shorten them enough to allow the screw heads to be countersunk. This allows about half the bolster thickness to support the ends of the pivot and that just makes me feel better. The downside is that you do have to adjust the tension on one screw (tighten the other down snugly first) but that doesn't bother me as I like to be able to pinch the blade if I want to. A drop of Lok-Tite keeps the screw where I set it. She's getting used to it. For a while she didn't think we ever had any season but winter here but, in fact, it's only about 7 months out of the year. Today is like a day at the beach, beautiful. She likes the chipmunks, hates the squirrels because they won't let her have a garden in the middle of their hill, is afraid of coyotes, and is still trying to figure out the bears. Everything else she wants to throw in a wok ... |
#6
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I hope that is a hand forged and hammered wok
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#7
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I use barrel pivots that extend flush with the outside of the liners.
I learned a long time ago not to bend the lock bar too far. It torques the whole knife and actually can curl the frame when it's set. |
#8
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Slaved away at the thick TI and made the clip. Drilled liners ,went to drill clip and I cant get a bit deep enough to get a 2-56 screw in to mount from underneath. I think I am going to have to drill all the way thru . I had hoped to not be able to see the screws.
dave |
#9
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#10
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Nice looking clip. Yep, you may need to fasten it from the outside.
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blade, knife |
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