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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 12-11-2012, 10:02 AM
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rockhound rockhound is offline
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Tang Hole Chamfers?

Hi all,
I have a few quick questions regarding the chamfer of holes when drilling through a full-tang (pre-HT stock removal cpm154cm).

1. Holes drilled for weight reduction. I believe these should be chamfered to reduce the chance of stress cracking during HT.... correct?

2. Holes drilled for scale pins. I know these should be chamfered and have been doing so.

3. Tang holes drilled for bolster pins. Yes or no chamfer? Not sure.

Thanks!


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  #2  
Old 12-11-2012, 10:05 AM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Holes should be chamferred if you think it will help you to get a pin through the hole, not needed to prevent stress cracking. Stress cracking is usually only a problem on sharp internal corners...


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  #3  
Old 12-11-2012, 05:24 PM
Brad Johnson Brad Johnson is offline
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Rockhound,
I follow Paul Bos' advice on holes "chamfer all of them" especially the CPM steels (M2, D2,154 etc..).

Remember to use number and letter drills for clearance, Example, for a 3/32 pin I use a number 41 drill for .003 clearance.

You can find a chart at this link http://www.auto-ware.com/techref/drillsizes.htm
Regards,


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  #4  
Old 12-11-2012, 05:40 PM
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BCROB BCROB is offline
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I chamfer my handle pin holes and holes for weight reduction , little more space for epoxy to bond, dont know if it makes a difference or not but I havent had any handles come off yet........for more security piece of mind corby rivets are great
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  #5  
Old 12-12-2012, 07:17 AM
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Sounds like cheap insurance to me. I do it on all pin holes.


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  #6  
Old 12-12-2012, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crex View Post
Sounds like cheap insurance to me.
I agree with this logic and appreciate the great advice from everyone.
Thanks!


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Old 12-12-2012, 10:55 AM
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FWIW...
I broke this one post-HT. Not a big deal, I have two other knives in progress and this was a good learning experience.
I was trying to correct a slight bow using the 3-dowel method in a table vise (I didn't have high hopes of correcting the bow). I gave it undue stress and noticed that it failed (near the center dowel) on a weight-reduction hole that I had drilled but not chamfered.


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Old 12-12-2012, 11:07 AM
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I wonder why yours warped so badley. Mine were A2 and sent to texas knife like you did yours and they didn't warp at all that I could tell. One was pretty uneven too. If you could think of anything that may have caused it in particular I would be interested to know.
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Old 12-12-2012, 11:09 AM
clivehamilton77 clivehamilton77 is offline
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What the best bit for chamfering?
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  #10  
Old 12-12-2012, 11:19 AM
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I wonder why yours warped so badley. Mine were A2 and sent to texas knife like you did yours and they didn't warp at all that I could tell. One was pretty uneven too. If you could think of anything that may have caused it in particular I would be interested to know.
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  #11  
Old 12-12-2012, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbsmith111 View Post
I wonder why yours warped so badley. Mine were A2 and sent to texas knife like you did yours and they didn't warp at all that I could tell. One was pretty uneven too. If you could think of anything that may have caused it in particular I would be interested to know.
cb...
I was fighting this one from the start. It began with the billet... ATS-34 and NOT precision ground. I do stock removal profiling with an angle grinder and drilling with a press but everything else is hand files and sandpaper. Even minor imperfections (caused by myself or poor stock) can be difficult to correct (as I'm sure you know). In this case I was fighting a slightly bowed billet from the git-go. I thought I had it corrected and both sides flat prior to HT but I believe that the natural bow recurred during HT or Cryo due to those stresses.... just a guess... not the HT service's fault.
I'm now working with CPM154CM which is precision ground. So much easier to work with for someone like me using minimal equip. I don't foresee this same problem happening to me again. Definitely sold on precision ground billets now.


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Old 12-12-2012, 12:22 PM
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I see, that must be a factor. I've only ever bought precision ground. I was just curious because I knew our methods were so similar.
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  #13  
Old 12-16-2012, 09:38 AM
bob levine bob levine is offline
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best bit for chamfering a hole up to 1/4 inch is a solid carbide 82 degree countersink. Unless you try to chamfer an already hardened piece of steel., the countersink will work for thousands of holes.MSC has them at a reasonable cost. Bob Levine, Knifemakers Guild mentor
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  #14  
Old 12-17-2012, 08:36 AM
clivehamilton77 clivehamilton77 is offline
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Thanks Bob
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advice, angle, ats-34, auto, bee, drill, files, flat, hand, handle, knife, knives, mentor, pins, post, press, rivets, sharp, steel, stock removal, tang, vise


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