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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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Its gettin ugly
I have been fighting this grind line, now I'm too thin, about a dime at the edge to go any further. Should I HT then take the grind to the spine? Any advice would be great.
Last edited by JawJacker; 12-03-2012 at 08:25 PM. |
#2
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I do all my grinding after HT so you should be able to finish that knife that way. I would grind it all the way to the spine, I doubt you'll be able to even it out otherwise and still have anything left above the grind.
Unless you are highly skilled with a grinder it is near impossible to get a good straight grind line on a piece of steel that isn't perfectly flat. I suspect that steel was not flat. If you grind a (slightly) wavy surface you get exactly that type of grind line ... |
#3
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I'm with Ray, until I read his answer I wasn't understanding what I was seeing because I remember you being stock removal and that looked liked when I had a ding in one of my blades. When I read his answer I realized that it was because you have a little dip in that one area of your blade, it just wasn't caused by a errant hammer blow. It really doesn't take much and sometimes they're easier to feel than to see.
Doug __________________ If you're not making mistakes then you're not trying hard enough |
#4
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I don't know....studied those pics a bit. I think it may more likely be "human error" of the sort that comes with learning to grind. There is a human bias, with grinding longer/larger surfaces that tends to manifest until we learn to compensate. Very similar to the bias you see in teaching a new student how to smith a blade. One side will always be better than the other until they learn to compensate. Part of the learning curve. Also a major contributing factor to warpage issues early on in the game.
We've just learned to watch for it and adjust, until it becomes second nature and habit. __________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
#5
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I was using a jig for the grind, I kept every sweep across the blade even pressure I noticed after a few passes the line was wavey i tried to compensate working the shallow part of the wave. It seemed like with a 2'' belt I had to chase it up and down. I do think the balde had a bend, next time I'll grind and make sure its flat FIRST.
My platen is 9" the knife is 11" maybe next time stick to a smaller knife and eliminate some of the pitfall. |
#6
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...........JJ , couldn't help but notice you home decor in the picture is feelin very festive already !! I like it !!
as for your grind line , I'm with Ray and Doug on this one , grind to the spine and you'll salvage this blade............as for losing your intended grind line.............we've all been there , chalk this one up as a great learning experience that you'll improve on next time....... Last edited by BCROB; 11-24-2012 at 08:08 AM. |
#7
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Wow JJ...you're ready for Christmas! I had to tell my wife there was no decorating or lights until after Rememberance Day, so guess what I'm doing tomorrow...
I'm with you on making smaller knives for now. Less likely to mess it up and a little quicker to complete. |
#8
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Thanks for the advice guys, yup my wife stays on me for the lights and deco right after turkey day inside and out.
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#9
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If you are confident the steel was flat when you started, and the existing edge is even along its length, then your angle isn't the same throughout the length of the blade. It could be you, it could be the jig, it could be a little irregularity in your table or whatever you are sliding your jig along.
I would mark it up with some Dykem or even a permanent marker, then clean up that high spot with a fine single cut file. The file will force you to go slow to match up the top of the grind along the blade's length as well as match up both sides. You could either push file as is commonly done, or draw file starting at the high spot until you have it filed down to the same bevel as the rest of the blade, then draw file the full length of the blade to smooth things out. |
#10
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Look at both pictures at the same time....you guys think the steel billet is warped....on both sides in the same place? Not what I'm seeing. There is an issue with the steel alignment to the contact wheel at the same point on both sides. I'd rethink the use of the jig.
__________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
#11
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This usually comes from torqueing the blade. and not keeping even pressure at the platten. As the blade gets closer to the tip the hand you have the handle will naturally want to rotate downward probably unnoticeable to you . There is most likely only a 1 or 2 deg differance in the grind. Or in the blade staying parallel to the platten. Practice, Practice, Practice.
At this point I agree with Nj I'd straighten it with a file by hand. I would also agree with Carl and scrap the jig. Much of grinding a blade is about feel , you don't get the feel with a jig. |
#12
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My edges have all gotten too thin before heat treat so far. I just sand a little off the edge and thicken it back up. It takes so little metal to do it that you'll never be able to tell.
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#13
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If things don't go as planned, just make a smaller knife!
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#14
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I'm going to jump in real quick here, if you are drawing out and forging your knife blanks, use a flatter to get them closer to flat then go in and check the surface with a known straight edge. If you need to improvise a flatter let me know and I can tell you some tricks.
If you want to get all fancy you can use a shop press with a couple heavy plates to get the surface very even and uniform, an air hydraulic press makes it even easier. |
#15
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Think I'll go the file route, I dont trust myself not taking any off the spine with the belt.
Monday Ill check the blade on a glass table top see what I see Nope not forging just stock removal but I would like to know about the Flatter Last edited by JawJacker; 11-25-2012 at 11:32 AM. |
Tags |
advice, art, back, bee, blade, chris, christmas, edge, flat, grinding, hammer, handle, heat treat, home, how to, jig, knife, knives, lights, make, making, sand, steel, stock removal, surface |
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