I need some advice from the experts ( distal taper related )

[Kevster]

I need to know.

1) did I mess this blade up?.

2) if so can it be fixed?

3) if not, how far down the blade should I take the taper.









I got scared to go to far so I thought I'd ask,

Thanks

[ricky_arthur]

1. do the swedge/taper after you cut the main bevel.
2. use a file and draw file it in. Don't try it with a grinder.
3. I usually pick a spot on the spine to start it. Where your mark is is fine. Then I stop the taper at the point where the spine thickness for the length of the swedge is equal to a point near the tip, usually about 1 to 1/2 inch from the tip. Unless you want to sharpen the top of the blade as well and then you would go further.
If you stop now and do it in that order it can be saved.

Here is one I just finished.

[Kevster]

Originally Posted by ricky_arthur

1. do the swedge/taper after you cut the main bevel.
2. use a file and draw file it in. Don't try it with a grinder.
3. I usually pick a spot on the spine to start it. Where your mark is is fine. Then I stop the taper at the point where the spine thickness for the length of the swedge is equal to a point near the tip, usually about 1 to 1/2 inch from the tip. Unless you want to sharpen the top of the blade as well and then you would go further.
If you stop now and do it in that order it can be saved.

Here is one I just finished.

Thanks, that's actually what I had set out to do, I didn't really understand what distal tapering was.

So you are saying to put the edge on the blade first and then add the swedge taper?

Thanks for your help.

[ricky_arthur]

Yes. put the edge on first then cut in the taper. It's just much easier that way.

Don't worry, I also get so excited that I jump steps wanting to get a knife done. I could show you a picture of the knife with no pins in the handle because I skipped drilling the holes before heat treat.

What the heck, here it is. On the top of the pic. These were about half the knives I made and gave away for Christmas. That was one of the very first knives I made and it was forged from a piece of coil spring. I didn't realize I had skipped the holes until I was gluing on the scales, which happen to be from a red cedar I cut and made a cedar chest out of and I wanted to see if they would work as handle scales. But I Digress. LOL

[Kevster]

Looks good! Here's my first one, made out of a old butcher knife and oak scales I had left over from a job.

[ricky_arthur]

Looks good. I'm guessing you are doing your grinding on a disc grinder?

[Kevster]

Originally Posted by ricky_arthur

Looks good. I'm guessing you are doing your grinding on a disc grinder?

That one I did on a bench grinder, drilling the holes was not a easy task though! Lol.

I just bought a grinder buffer combo from a knife builder here in Texas, I haven't quite figured it out yet though, I think I'm going to build a jig to do my blade sharpining with on the new grinder.

Here's the one the guy I bought it from made.

[ricky_arthur]

Nah, ditch the jig, learn to grind. You'll enjoy it more. Well,...Maybe not at first. lol

[Kevster]

Originally Posted by ricky_arthur

Nah, ditch the jig, learn to grind. You'll enjoy it more. Well,...Maybe not at first. lol

That's what I'm afraid of.

[Crex]

If you learn with a jig, you most likely will always have to use the jig. When you decide to do something outside the jig's capability, you're going to have to learn how to do it freehand or build another jig. If you get freehand down from the getgo.....no jig building required.