First Fillet Knife.

[Jason Cutter]

This one was a challenge. Again a request from a friend who wants a real using knife. Just a basic Scotchbrited finish on the blade. Not my favourite idea of the best handle colour etc, but it was the customer's request. I left a bit of grinding till after HT to reduce the warpage problem, but the blade just kept moving from side to side, while grinding, even after HT ! The handle is quite thin, but comfortable and will allow use with heavy gloves on. Because it is slab-sided, it is easy to index in the hand. The shape is based on my Lightfighter bowie knife.

Anyway, feedback appreciated. This is my first successfully executed fillet knife. Thanks. Jason.

[Phantom23]

Jason,
I have just finished the blade on my first fillet knife, it's out of 1.6mm 440c and 4.5' blade. I have about 5 knives in the shed and hope to do another fillet and cooks knife next week when I am off work and send them to Hills by next friday.

Is it sub- tang constuction? if so how /which pins keep the blade in.

My handle is based on my hunter knife lol lol

It looks like it will do the job. My only comment would be old mate must catch bigger fish than me. The whiting and bream I get onto will be covered by the 4.5 inch blade. I made it that size because I don't like the longer blades I have.

I found not much room for error with the thin steel on my equipment (read slightly modified blade design)

Phantom 23

[luc]

Jason!
Your a madman, That is by far the coolest fillet knife I have ever seen!
I love it!
Lucas

[gary wendell]

Jason, one of the best designed and practical fillet knives I've seen..........Gary

[paul savage]

Jason, good looking knife. Filet knives are one of my favorites and living in Canada mine get their share of use on every thing from perch(not very big) to salmon(pretty big15-30 lbs). Great use of colour & materials.It's nice to think outside the box.I use 440c as well but I just profile & drill my holes prior to heat treat , leaving the blade grinding till after. It is a little harder on belts but I seem to end up with better results.Using 440c at work (industrial knife shop) I've come to learn that if you take equal amounts of material off it always comes back to straight . Anyways , enough idle chatter.Again, great looking knife. Paul

[Jason Cutter]

Phantom - I was trying out a different pin method. The 2 first pins on the top and the first pin at the guard side of the handle sit in notches in the tang. This way, I don't have to have more pins in the centreline of the handle. I personally like pins along the perimeter of the handle - I think its actually stronger.

Its also a good way to "salvage" a blade thats been heat treated, if you forget to drill the holes beforehand. The notches in the tang can simply be cut in with a Dremel tool using the reinforced cuttoff wheel to fit the position of the pins.

Paul - as it turns out, through trial and error (and a lot of swearing...) I'm now doing what you've described. I only profiled and cut the edge bevels in before HT.

Thanks to all for the feedback. Jason.