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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 09-04-2015, 07:01 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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borax

hey guys listen i just got a quick question... so i finally got a propane forge and i was experimenting and playing around with forge welding. i saw online that the 20 mule team borax (laundry booster) is ok for flux then i found a recipe that takes that borax puts it in oven for a while and it make "anhydrous borax" so anyway i think i was using more than i needed and at the end the "firebrick" bottom had a sort of red hot puddle (not a actual puddle of liquid just a red hot spot on the brick in the shape of a puddle. So i read now that borax will eat through fire brick fairly quickly i wish i knew that when i started. Is there anything else i can use as a decent flux besides something to order from a site i can always do that but i am trying to find something that i can get locally some where. THANKS ahead of time guys
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Old 09-04-2015, 08:12 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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The whole point of flux is that it is corrosive. If it isn't corrosive it doesn't work very well. There are expensive coatings like Bubble Alumina that will slow down the corrosive effect on your fire brick but most of us just get used to the idea of replacing the brick now and then.

I believe you said earlier that you were buying a forge. Most commercial forges use very soft fire brick since most of them are meant for farriers who don't use flux. Next time, save a bunch of money and build a forge - they are much easier to maintain that way.

Or, you could pour a bottom for your forge using Missou refractory. Once it sets it is much more resistant to the flux that fire brick.

You will see puddles of flux in the bottom of your forge, don't worry about it . Next time you run the forge it will re-melt and you'll have that flux available again....


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Old 09-05-2015, 06:56 AM
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Crex Crex is offline
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I just use a vertical forge for welding with enough room in the bottom for about a quart of loose kitty litter. This collects the flux and can easily be broken up, removed and replaced cheaply and easily.
Just don't let it build up too long.
Only big diff between 20 Mule and anhydrous is the entrapped water - borax is hydroscopic - once the foaming (boiling) is done the product is basically the same. 20 Mule is a little messier but a lot cheaper and readily available.


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