Rosewood Dymondwood

[Austin Cutlery]

making a knife for a guy and this is what he wanted on the knife. I have never used it before and so far think it is crap. it chips with the bandsaw and chips with drill even with new bit. Anyone have these problems or it there a trick to working with it???? thanks I may just try to find sold wood that is the same look and color. thoughts?

[Ray Rogers]

Dymondwood is generally very easy to work with as long as you're using sharp tools. If it chips when you drill, then put some scrap wood behind it before you drill so the scrap chips instead of the Dymondwood. If it chips with the saw then cut wide and sand it down to the finished size. Once you're ready to finish all it requires is a little sanding and buffing, very easy to get a shiny finish. The end result is more water resistant than untreated wood would be.

You're right, it is crap but it can be fairly good looking crap that is easy to work with....

[Austin Cutlery]

Originally Posted by Ray Rogers

Dymondwood is generally very easy to work with as long as you're using sharp tools. If it chips when you drill, then put some scrap wood behind it before you drill so the scrap chips instead of the Dymondwood. If it chips with the saw then cut wide and sand it down to the finished size. Once you're ready to finish all it requires is a little sanding and buffing, very easy to get a shiny finish. The end result is more water resistant than untreated wood would be.

You're right, it is crap but it can be fairly good looking crap that is easy to work with....

i went wide with the bandsaw so it did not cuase problems, but the drill bit was new, had only drilled 2 holes i antler for another knife on the same day. I had scrap wood behind it. maybe i went to fast. any drill bits better than another for it?

[Ray Rogers]

No special drill required. I like cobalt drills instead of the usual HSS drills but either should work fine for Dymondwood. If it chips out a little you should be able to grind it out while shaping the handle. Drill while the scale is still flat, shape it afterwards....

[Austin Cutlery]

Originally Posted by Ray Rogers

No special drill required. I like cobalt drills instead of the usual HSS drills but either should work fine for Dymondwood. If it chips out a little you should be able to grind it out while shaping the handle. Drill while the scale is still flat, shape it afterwards....

yes i shaped to much before I drilled is why I ran into the problem. thanks as always for your thoughts and input!

[WynnKnives]

I don't do any thickness shaping on my handle materials before drilling or fitting to avoid situations like these, plus it's always much easier to alter a scale or block of material than it is a piece already profiled and shaped

[metal99]

I feel your pain with the drill chipping the handle material. That happened to me on a $50 chunk of amboyna burl a while ago... I'm pretty sure I was putting to much pressure on the drill press.

[WynnKnives]

Another good way to reduce chipping it to predrill with a much smaller bit, I know on materials more likely to chip out I always do this. Those bigger drill bits just put too much pressure on the exit hole.