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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 11-21-2016, 06:54 PM
damon damon is offline
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W2, or 1084?

did clay heat treat, and water quench on what I thought was a W2 blade.....
*CLINK, Clink, clink,clink.....clink
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  #2  
Old 11-21-2016, 07:04 PM
jmccustomknives jmccustomknives is offline
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That's what happens when you water quench a high carbon steel in water. It sucks don't it. go ahead and finish the break to read your grain.
I ran across a guy who had beautiful hammons and asked him how he got them. He said he water quenched. So I tried it with the same result. As it turned out he said he had a 50% failure rate. If I'd known that I'd never tried it.
Get some Parks 50, you'll get good results and wont ruin blades.
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  #3  
Old 11-21-2016, 07:04 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is online now
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Well, one question that immediately pops into my head is why did you *think* it was W2 as opposed to knowing what you had?

Even if it was W2 or 1084 you could have quenched in a fast pro oil and then it wouldn't have played that nasty little tune ....


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  #4  
Old 11-22-2016, 08:07 AM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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When I worked in the machine shop and I used their oven to HT an O1 knife I wrapped it with the stainless foil because I didn't want to have scale on it as I had finished it to 400 grit. I quenched it in water and you know what? The bloody begger still cracked.
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  #5  
Old 11-22-2016, 12:42 PM
Doug Lester Doug Lester is offline
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O-1 in water! That's really pushing it. That said, I can't recommend water or brine unless you can't find an oil that will do the trick. I've watched a program on the traditional making of a Japanese swords and the master sword smiths consider a 25% failure rate in water acceptable.

Doug


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Old 11-22-2016, 01:10 PM
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QUOTE: the master sword smiths consider a 25% failure rate in water acceptable.

And possibly optimistic ....


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  #7  
Old 11-22-2016, 03:44 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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I just thought the foil would slow the heat exchange down between the O1 blade and water and I was wrong, but to quench in oil you can't put it in foil as that does slow the heat exchange down just a little too much.
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  #8  
Old 11-23-2016, 08:49 AM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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I quenched my last two 1095 blades in brine. No breaks or cracks but some pretty significant warping. I got both blades straightened but one had a "wave" in the edge. I tried everything and in the end resorted to hammering it out on an anvil. Well it broke. So while I've only quenched about 4 or 5 blades in brine, I'm pretty much done with brine.

And more and more just sticking with 0-1


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  #9  
Old 11-23-2016, 09:22 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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never used w2 but with 1084 I have used canola and parks 50 stainless only in park 50 .....I have never had a blade crack in the quench
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  #10  
Old 11-25-2016, 10:32 AM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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  #11  
Old 11-25-2016, 12:51 PM
jmccustomknives jmccustomknives is offline
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Well, the good news....the grain looks good. The bad news...you can see the grain.
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  #12  
Old 11-25-2016, 12:52 PM
jmccustomknives jmccustomknives is offline
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Parks 50 may cost a little more, but it's cheaper than all the time wasted forging and grinding blades that break.
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  #13  
Old 11-25-2016, 01:43 PM
Doug Lester Doug Lester is offline
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OUCH!!

Doug


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  #14  
Old 11-25-2016, 02:05 PM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmccustomknives View Post
Parks 50 may cost a little more, but it's cheaper than all the time wasted forging and grinding blades that break.
Yeah, been thinking about getting some Parks. I've gotten pretty good results with Canola, though I realize that isn't ideal with 1095. So I tried brine. Actually it was fine except for that horrible "wave" in the blade. I was trying to hammer it out when it broke.


Easier and cheaper still, is to abandone the 1095 and switch exclusively to 0-1 and Canola.


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  #15  
Old 11-25-2016, 02:06 PM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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Originally Posted by Doug Lester View Post
OUCH!!

Doug
That's what Damon said ^^ Lol!


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1084, 1095, anvil, blade, blades, carbon, edge, forging, grinding, heat, heat treat, japanese, knife, knives, making, o-1, quenched, scale, shop, stainless, steel, traditional, warping, water, wave


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