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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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Handle finish questions from a new member
I bought a kit that included dymanwood handles. My question is how do I finish the handles? Do I put stain and poly on them? or just a oil base?
I understand how to pin and finish the handle just not how to make the handle shinny and looking nice. thanks |
#2
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Dymanwood is a wood laminate impregnated with resin so they will not stain or absorb a finish. Just sand them out to a fine grit, buff if you have the equipment, and apply a coat of wax.
Doug __________________ If you're not making mistakes then you're not trying hard enough |
#3
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ok great did not know this.
What type of wax do I use for this wood? assuming I have other type wood, what would I use to seal say maple wood. |
#4
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Any good wood wax will do. I use Renaissance Wax on just about everything that I wax however.
You're right on maple needing sealing. I use boiled linseed oil until the wood stops absorbing it. Other woods, such as the rosewood group, which includes African Blackwood and Kingwood, don't need anything done to it. There are other very dense oily woods that only need to be sanded out to a fine finish and given a light coat of wax and a quick buff. Then there are stabilized woods that behave like the Dymanwood. You'll learn. Doug __________________ If you're not making mistakes then you're not trying hard enough |
#5
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good sanding fine grit and ultra fine buff with compounds to high luster finish .
Sam __________________ R. Yates 13 & On Forge Live and Let Live , Do Not trespass on Life or Me! As we are not so kind or forgiving ! |
#6
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I have a dual bench grinder wheel. I really do not use this anymore. Can I remove the grindwheels and put buffer pads on them?
Can anyone recomend buffing compond for the handles. I have some car buffing compound that I use when I spray a car but I figure this is not the correct stuff. sorry for the dumb questions. |
#7
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If all you want to do is polish your handle, get a buffing wheel adapter for your hand drill and clamp the blade in a vice after padding it with something like scrap leather. You could give the buffing compound a try. The worst that can happen is that you might have to go back over it with some very fine sandpaper and get something else. You could also try something like Zam or Fabulustre, both of which you can get from Jantz.
Doug __________________ If you're not making mistakes then you're not trying hard enough |
#8
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Quote:
Johnson's paste wax works well as does Renissance wax. For most buffing I will use white rouge on the wheels. __________________ Barry Clodfelter Proud member of PETA....People Eating Tasty Animals There is a place for all of God's creatures...right next to the mashed potatoes and gravy! |
#9
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Ok thanks all. you have been vey helpfull.
I do not use the bench grind for anything so I will give it a try. I also have a hand drill and a drill press so I will look into hand wheels also. |
#10
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I am looking at some maple and walnut for handles. I have been buying a lot of material from Jantz. Do they offer a sealer/finish that will put a nice shine to the handle. I am thinking I need to put something other than the wax on the maple handle.
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#11
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The easiest way to get a nice shine on a wood handle is to use stabilized wood and the finish on stabilized wood won't wear off. But, Jantz sells all the usual finishing materials too, buffing wheels, compounds, etc that you will need for any wood they sell. Their catalog is the easiest way to see all the products at one time and select the finishing system that suits you best but you can find quite a bit of the same info on their website too .......
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#12
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Dumb newbee question..... Stabilized wood is?
I am assuming the vender doe some type of treatment on the wood prior to shipment. |
#13
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No, not usually - they buy it that way because there are only a couple of outfits that mass produce stabilized wood. As I said, stabilized wood has had acrylic resin forced all the way through it to the extent that it pretty much fills every crack and void even into the cells of the wood. All of the major supply houses sell it. The process can be done to most any wood that is not naturally oily so most tropical woods are out. The majority of stabilized wood is burls or spalts - woods that are weak by their nature or very soft and yet attractive enough to be desired as knife handles. Some people don't like the plastic shiny look that the process imparts to the wood but, to me, the ease of finishing and added durability far outweigh that consideration. Current prices mostly start around $25 - $30 for a block. In my opinion, worth every penny .....
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#14
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I Agree Ray I love Stabilized woods for knife handles . especially for beginners , however any good knife maker knows it is well worth the extra money when making a good quality knife to sell or gift .as it will last forever if used properly .
Sam __________________ R. Yates 13 & On Forge Live and Let Live , Do Not trespass on Life or Me! As we are not so kind or forgiving ! |
Tags |
apply, back, bee, blade, coat, drill, hand, handle, how to, kit, knife, leather, make, material, materials, polish, press, resin, sand, spray, supply, wax, wood, woods |
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