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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 09-04-2016, 06:53 AM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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What is...

..."Acid stone washed finished?" I know what it is, looks wise, but what is the process?

Also dumb question maybe, but can putting a knife in and out of a leather sheath dull the edge? Maybe dull is too strong of a description, I'm talking about losing that very fine hair popping edge.


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Old 09-04-2016, 07:21 AM
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Ed Caffrey Ed Caffrey is offline
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Quote:
"Acid Stone washed finish"
is generally accomplished as follows:

-Blade is hand finished to chosen level
-Well cleaned and short etch (acid or ferric chloride)
-Taken straight out of the etch and place in a tumbler (usually vibratory with ceramic media)

That's how it's achieved.

Quote:
can putting a knife in and out of a leather sheath dull the edge
Certainly, especially if the sheath isn't well thought out/made. Any time the edge rubs against and/or cuts into something, it's going to dull it somewhat.


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Old 09-04-2016, 07:21 PM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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Okay thanks Ed. I figured it was some type of tumbled finish but wasn't sure it was actually acid etched.

I figured either the leather would take the fine edge off or else gremlins come through at night and dull the blades!


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Old 09-05-2016, 02:49 AM
damon damon is offline
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gnomes...... not gremlins
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Old 09-05-2016, 06:00 AM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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Gnomes, gremlins... all those little beasts are irritants!


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Old 09-05-2016, 08:26 AM
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Old 09-08-2016, 12:31 AM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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If you do an etch of your knife Goater be sure and fit your handles on first. If you have a glass pan you can put your knife under vinegar and brine for three or four days and that would etch even stainless, I did it to a cheap thrower and it came out all black and dark grey, kind of a camouflage effect. I was surprised that somebody liked it and now I'm making a sheath for it.
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Old 09-08-2016, 12:22 PM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtec1 View Post
I caught a elf once he was hiding my drill bits on me....
Apparently felt belts too.


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Old 09-08-2016, 12:31 PM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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Originally Posted by jimmontg View Post
If you do an etch of your knife Goater be sure and fit your handles on first. If you have a glass pan you can put your knife under vinegar and brine for three or four days and that would etch even stainless, I did it to a cheap thrower and it came out all black and dark grey, kind of a camouflage effect. I was surprised that somebody liked it and now I'm making a sheath for it.

Kind of thinking of small EDC knives with a paracord wrapped handle. I'm wondering about rust under the wrap. Not sure how much rust resistence you'd get, if any, with some type acid etching. Maybe some cold gun blueing. I know, I know, cerakote finishes, etc, etc. Trying to get down to cheap, easy, fast.

I also know a lot of people epoxy coat the paracord, which would solve the problem, but make the wrap permanent, not allowing for the removal of the paracord. Also adds more work. Some micarta or G-10 scales, epoxied on, pinned & peened and voila', problem solved.
But a lot of people like the "paracord wrapped Asian tactical" look. Just trying to investigate what to do UNDER that wrap.

No, don't want to go stainless route at this time.


Edit to add: Maybe the tang under the wrap could be coated or evey Rustoleum spray painted?


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Last edited by WNC Goater; 09-08-2016 at 01:09 PM.
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Old 09-08-2016, 01:34 PM
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I wouldn't do anything to the tang you weren't willing to do to the blade. If the blade has to be maintained then so does the tang, since the cord is removable that shouldn't be a problem.

There are laws of conservation in this universe and one of them says you don't get nuthin' for free. You can make it easy on yourself to make the knife (carbon, cord, cheap, done) or you can make it easy on the customer (stainless, cord, little more cost and effort) but whatever you do will be a balancing act, always is.

If the customer gets a well made knife for a low price he needs to accept that it will require some maintenance or he needs to think of it as expendable. If the customer wants a no maintenance knife then you need to do more work and he needs to pay more.

In short, any knife requires a certain amount of work energy, some is yours and some is the customer's (in the form of money and maintenance). There is no way out of that equation, all you can do is solve for the variables that are most important to you ...


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Old 09-08-2016, 02:47 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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I might add Goater that if you want to put handles on and are using screws of any kind, guess what? There is no rule that says you have to use epoxy. I have used with absolutely no problems, a good caulking compound. Make sure it is clear and have vinegar to wipe up the excess, it squeezes under the guard too. I made a hidden tang filet knife out of O1 and filled the handle with caulking compound that squeezed under the guard/bolster. I bought a little squeeze tube, not the big cylinder tube. The tang had three 3/32 pins and a tapped and screwed on pommel. Water isn't getting in there. It worked on a full tang knife as well made from O1 and blued. I always blue my O1.

If you decide to use a paracord wrapped handle, then I would use super blue by Birchwood Casey and wax the tang and run your cord through some melted beeswax. Not paraffin wax which will flake off. Another option is veg tanned lace run through mink oil. I'll give you some, it isn't expensive and the mink oil makes it more flexible so it isn't so stiff. Message me for when I'll be in Asheville. Lunch is on me. I'll splurge at someplace cheap.

Last edited by jimmontg; 09-08-2016 at 10:51 PM.
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acid, belts, blade, blades, cheap, cold, drill, edge, etch, etched, fixed blade, hand, handles, knife, knives, leather, leather sheath, made, making, scales, sheath, stainless, stone, tactical


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