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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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Belt selection ??
The grinder should be done by the weekend so its time to order some 2 X 72 belts. Could some one tell me what would make a good selection of belts to order . I already have lots of equipment for working on the handle part so the belts are mainly for steel.I will be ordering these from Canadian Knifemaker Supply or Mossington Knife Supply.
Thanks for your help Gary |
#2
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I use 36, 60,120 and 400 everything else I do by hand. But I should add I did not start out with 36 or 60, I started out with 220 grit being the coarsest belt I had and it helped me to not make huge mistakes...As I got better i bought 80, then 60 and then 36
I find 36 and something 100-150 are the 2 I mainly use. |
#3
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I grind my blades after they are hardened. For that reason, I avoid the 36 grit belts which make very deep scratches and start with 60. In any case, make sure to get ceramic belts for the coarsest grit you use, whatever it may be. They cost more but they far outlast AO or SC belts when grinding on steel. I like 60, 120, 220, 400....
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#4
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I go with 36, 120, and 220 grit belts in Norton Norzon Plus zirconia alumina then switch to 3M micron belts for 400 and 600 equivalent then to a Scotch-Brite belt for a satin finish. If I don't want to switch go for a satin finish, as when I want to display a hamon, I then switch to hand sanding after 600 grit.
Doug __________________ If you're not making mistakes then you're not trying hard enough |
#5
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Youll find your choices will vary as your skills and style changes,dont be afraid to experiment but do yourself a favor and spend the money on quality belts.
__________________ Romey Cowboy inc Keep a light rein, a foot on each side and a faraway look http://www.highcountryknives.com |
#6
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I?d recommend trying small batches of multiple belts to figure out what works for you and how you grind.
Personally, I don?t get the life out of the ceramics (likely due to how fast I run and how much force I apply) that warrant paying the additional costs. There are good economy/cheap belts out there that work very well. I also don?t sweat throwing away a belt that costs $2.50 Vs one that costs $8. New/sharp belts cut better and help me to avoid forcing things. As far as specific belts, Zirc 60/80 grit belts for profiling and setting the initial grind, 120 grit yellow klingspor (312 IIRC) for cleaning up the plunges and a progression of 3M gators to clean up. Then its either scotchbrite belts or off to hand sanding YMMV Last edited by Kostoglotov; 01-29-2013 at 08:19 AM. |
#7
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Thanks for all the help and sharing your knowledge .
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#8
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I'm nothing if not cheap but don't take Kostoglotov's advice too literally. It's best to stick with brand name belts that to get off brand belts. They will cost you more in the long run. I get mine from USA Knife Maker Supply or TruGrit. The Norzon belts are in the $3-$4 range and, at least in my opinion, will cut faster and last longer than the orange Blaze belts. Whichever you select, treat your belts like they cost $10/100.
Doug __________________ If you're not making mistakes then you're not trying hard enough |
Tags |
advice, apply, art, blaze, brand, cleaning, grinding, hamon, hand, handle, knife, knife supply, knifemaker, make, satin finish, sharp, steel, supply |
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