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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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Programing an oven
I am a new maker that is using 1084. I have a couple of ovens (left over from another life) and they are both programmable. My questions are:
1. In normalizing, can I program a routine that will allow me to take it up to 1600, stop and let it cool for 2 hrs, then take it back to 1500 and let it cool for 2 hours, and then take it up to 1200 and stop, letting the blade cool in the oven? 2. What program should I set up for hardening, the ramp and holding time till I quench? 3. Can I set up a program to temper the blades and, if so, what should it be? 4. Is it easier to use a torch and watch for color as I will only be doing 2-3 blades at a time? As always TIA...Teddy |
#2
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I would imagine the programming would depend on the individual ovens themselves if they are able to be programmed or not. Obviously the technology is out there, it just depends on if the ovens you have contain that ability.
Also if it's a decent oven I don't think 2 hours in between are going to be enough time for your oven to cool down. I run a homemade oven and while I do alot of stainless steels, my oven is no where near cool enough after two hours to facilitate the proper cool down cycle for normalizing. Number 2 and 3 fall into what I said about programming, it all depends on what your oven is capable of. Also using the same oven for hardening and tempering is difficult because it takes so long to get back to the correct temperature. And if I had the oven to use, (as I do) I would never go back to using a torch and looking at the color while I have the ability to hold it at the for sure correct temperature. Knowing what temperature your at versus guessing (going by color or magnetization) in every situation will produce a superior result. |
#3
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Teddy,
In normalizing you don't need anything like 2 hours, sounds like you're talking about annealing. When I want to normalize with my oven I set a program to reach the normalizing temp and hold it for about 30 minutes - BUT, you don't leave the blade in there for 30 minutes. What you do is wait for the temp to be reached, then give it a couple minutes at that temp, then pull the blade out and let it cool to black while the oven is still heating to normalizing temp. Once the blade is black, put it back in the oven until normalizing temp is again achieved, wait a couple minutes, and pull the blade and let it cool to black. Do this a total of three times. This will take less than 30 minutes so cancel the program when you're done. Then, switch to another program (or re-program) for hardening the blade. In the few minutes it takes to switch programs the oven will cool below the austenitizing temp. Put the blade in the oven and run your usual hardening process. 2. I put the blade in the cold oven and ramp as fast as it will go to the proper heat treating temp. If memory serves, I think I use 1475 for 1084 3. Yes, you can, but only after the oven cools down and, as Wynn said, that ain't happenin' today. Most of us keep a toaster oven for that. I stick my blades in cryo over night just so I can wait until the next day to temper using my oven. 4. See Wynn's comment Get a spec sheet on 1084 and any other steel you plan to HT. Half the stuff you asked is answered on those sheets. Get the sheets where ever you can find them - the steel manufacturer web site, Alpha Knife Supply, several other web sites. As a last resort, take the advice of anyone else but those sheets ... |
Tags |
1084, advice, back, blade, blades, cold, homemade, knife, knife supply, stainless, steel, supply, temper |
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