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Fine Embellishment Everything from hand engraving and scrimshaw to filework and carving. The fine art end of the knifemaker's craft.

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  #16  
Old 02-04-2006, 05:47 AM
fcuder fcuder is offline
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[QUOTE=Montejano]I hope that Fernando F. Escudero help us ( fcuder )
Only I will put it in Spanish and if Fernando might he will translate it to English.


Espero que nos ayude Fernando F. Escudero ( fcuder )
Solo lo pondré en español y si puede Fernando lo traducirá al inglés .



]
Dear Julie,
congratulations on your work, just I wish the pictures were close-ups, to get a better idea of the technical details.
Regarding Ferric Chloride, it's really effective on most metals, but of course has its pros and cons. It respects the edges of the engravings and the thin shading of the motifs. Yes, it is a bit slow, but Julie, are you in a hurry? A good engraving takes time, as good wine does. When an acid "attacks" very quicky and aggresively it can destroy an engraving, or at least deprive it of good quality.
If you want Ferric Chloride to go quicker, prepare the solution with warm water, and if the solution is already made, you can heat the container with, say, a hair dryer or something. Hot acid is more aggresive, but warm is enough.
I use Nitric very often, but others too. I finished the first knife (with the word "ROLDAN") days ago, using Nitic, which is very aggresive for the "walls" of the drawing, but it doesn't mean you can't do a good and delicate work.
I don't know what kind of paint or ink you have used in your coronet. There are many acid-resistant products available, just try out and see which one(s) best fits with your work.
If you use ink, it should be fluid enough to work with a pen-nib. It must dry quickly (no more that 12 hours) and once dry, it shouldn't be so brittle so that you don't flake it off when working with the needle point when trying to get the thin shade lines.
If the ink is of a good quality, you can make engravings suchs as the one in Jim Small's kinfe or like the Quijote (it belongs to a knife I engraved last year, with a 2 meters blade and a total of 4 meters when unfolded: the largest "pocket knife" in Spain).
In the Quijote engraving, I started shading 10 minutes after the ink drawing, and allowed me to do shading work for one hour or so. After that time the ink becomes brittle and the point starts to flake the ink off. To avoid flaking off, some wax has to be added to the ink, but I don't like to overuse wax in inks.

For metals such as copper, brass or nickle-silver, the best acid is "Dutch Acid", thought to be used in Rembrandt times. It's good for thin and delicate lines. I have used it for plate engraving for printing, with exelent results. But it produces a lot of fumes. Its compossition: 20 gr of Chlorate of Potassium, 880 gr of water, 100 gr of pure Hydrochloric. Changes can be made in this blend to make it more or less aggressive. However, Ferric Chloride works pretty similar to "Dutch", and without the nuisance of the fumes.
The print shown on the pictures was made with "Dutch acid". It's 45 cm high (quite large). It took me long and had to work it in steps, applying the acid-resistand ink in parts (not the whole plate at the same time) and doing the drawing whit the needle point (removing acidresistant ink to allow acid to attack) in that part, before the ink became too dry.

Some members in this forum have talked about "Aqua Regia". In my opinion it is for high carat gold, since it seems to be the only acid attacking it.

Julie, if you can not get Nitric, go for Ferric Chloride, and remember to WARM it if you want to speed up a little.
thanks for your kind words and I wish you keep up, with success, with your engraving.

Regards. Montejano

Last edited by fcuder; 02-04-2006 at 05:56 AM.
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  #17  
Old 02-04-2006, 12:33 PM
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Julie Coffey Julie Coffey is offline
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A quick answer to your question Montejano-

Am I in a hurry? No. I didnt know the time frame for acid etching would it take 20 min- an hour- 8? I had no books on it, just going off of your photos and the emails/posts you had here. I had no idea how long it would take. And since I destroyed the first piece by cutting poorly I only had this one left. I didnt know if I let it sit too long if it would etch too much? or if the resist came off - that wouldnt have been good either.

Just the nervous ramblings of a person trying something new on something urgently needed and very important. Something I would NOT recommend to anyone else- I prefer practicing on things first but this was an unusual situation.

I'll answer more to this later- and dont fret about close ups- it looks marvelous at a distance.

Julie


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  #18  
Old 02-04-2006, 01:57 PM
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Montejano Montejano is offline
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Fernando

Thanks for the friend translation; Your help is very important for that the translation be right . I desire my gratitude to do it public.


Julie

I think up that you would be in a hurry this work stops ;

A greeting

Montejano




-------------------------
Fernando

Gracias por la traducci?n amigo ; tu ayuda es muy importante para que la traducci?n sea correcta . Mi agradecimiento deseo hacerlo p?blico.
Julia

Imagino que tendr?a usted prisa para este trabajo ;

Un saludo

Montejano
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  #19  
Old 02-05-2006, 03:55 AM
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TexasJack TexasJack is offline
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Ouch! I stand corrected! Aqua Regia is HCl + HNO3.

Thanks, M!


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  #20  
Old 02-07-2006, 01:12 PM
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Julie Coffey Julie Coffey is offline
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Finished coronet

Wish I could get a better close up- but this is the assembled coronet. Its set with carved amethyst's.




Julie


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  #21  
Old 02-07-2006, 01:19 PM
mustang_man mustang_man is offline
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Looks good and thanks for the info
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  #22  
Old 02-07-2006, 04:16 PM
KERRY BOGAN KERRY BOGAN is offline
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Looks good Julie
This is a great thread and you have some obvious talent, keep going.
One question since no one else is asking it!!! What happened to your skunk logo and what is the musical connection with the new one?


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  #23  
Old 02-07-2006, 06:06 PM
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Julie Coffey Julie Coffey is offline
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LOL someone did notice. Actually it was a matter of just settling on a final name something lovely(yeah guys I'm a girl) but most important- short. One that will identify me and all that I do. Hard thing to do considering the various things I involve myself with. There's already a Coffey who's a knifemaker, so that was out. And 'lil stinker productions' just doesnt roll off the tongue. Even though in the Pentamere (michigan) region of the Middle Kingdom in the SCA- if you mention 'the skunk lady' after only a year I'm starting to get known.

I watch and study things that work. I really like Julie (and Buster) Warenski's opening webpage. So started looking for a word that would define me. My families always been surrounded by music. My father was a concert pianist then when a accident left him incapable of playing piano- he became lead organist for the Diocese of San Diego during the 50's and 60's. His father was involved with the Met in New York.

I settled on the word Aria when a definition I came across described it as a 'striking solo performance'. I think it will make a splendid hallmark when I finally get to making knifes, but also will work for anything else that I do too.

So it's Aria Artistry for a studio name, I consider myself blessed that though I am not yet an active knifemaker or advertising. I currently have a standing 6 month back order for leather, wood and monument work. I consider myself very blessed.

But anyway now 'ya know'.

Julie


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