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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#31
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There's never anything such as too much temperature control. I think that you will find it money well spent. I'm wondering if I could afford one myself.
Doug __________________ If you're not making mistakes then you're not trying hard enough |
#32
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I will have to do some research on the differences but they have the xpress models for a few hundred less than the regular models. Still, 1450 plus shipping is a lot of overtime hours I am going to have to work.
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#33
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What we knifemakers call normalizing is a bit different from what industry calls normalizing. I prefer the term thermal cycling to avoid confusion... Basically we are heating the blade to or above Acm to equalize the grain and put the carbon into solution, then refining the grain through increasingly lower temp cycles. This is a recipe for 1084 from a trusted source:
heat to 1500F and hold long enough to allow the blade to be evenly heated, air cool to black, then quench to cool heat to 1350F ( just becoming non-magnetic) and air cool to black, then quench to cool heat to 1200F ( still magnetic) and air cool to black, quench to cool Straighten any warp or twist heat to 1500F and hold long enough to allow the blade to be evenly heated quench Check for warp after holding in the quench oil for 5-8 seconds. Straighten immediately. Stop after about 20-30 seconds, as the blade will be too cool and may break. temper as soon as the blade hits room temp at 400-450F for two hours, twice. Quench in water to cool between temper cycles. If there is any warp after the blade cools, it can usually be straightened while at tempering temperature. Let it heat for 30 minutes before any straightening. The exact temperatures do not need to be hit when thermal cycling, 50 degrees one way or the other will not have any real effect as long as the first heat is above Acm and the last heat is below. My own method, since I don't have precise temp controls, is to heat the blade until full decalescence is achieved on the first heat, second heat I want to straddle non-magnetic, and the last heat I want just below non-magnetic. I've found that this leaves the blade in a state where it can be filed and drilled with little trouble, and fine grained. __________________ A good friend told me one time about forging "What is there not to like, you get to break all the rules you were told as a kid, don't play with that it is sharp, don't play with fire, and don't beat on that" Wade Holloway See some of my work. |
Tags |
1084, 550, back, blade, blades, brass, degrees, edge, fire, forged, forging, hamon, heat, hot, japanese, knife, knifemaking, made, make, neck knife, pattern, quenched, show, steel, video |
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