MEMBER ITEMS FOR SALE
Custom Knives | Other Knives | General Items
-------------------------------------------
New Posts | New PhotosAll Photos



Go Back   The Knife Network Forums : Knife Making Discussions > Custom Knife Discussion Boards > Knife Making Discussions > The Newbies Arena

The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 03-04-2005, 12:38 AM
sleepy sleepy is offline
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oklahoma City, OK.
Posts: 86
etching

PLEASE NEED SOME HELP

I'm trying to etch a cruwear blade but it isn't working very well. One side of blade is turning a dark grey(what i want) but not uniformly it's patchy. the other side isn't greying at all might as well have it sitting in water. I also tried creme of tartar it didn't work at all. Are these to weak for this steel, should I give up and use acid(feric, muratic, or nitric)? Am i doing something wrong?

THANKS IN ADVANCE
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 03-04-2005, 02:15 AM
hammerdownnow's Avatar
hammerdownnow hammerdownnow is offline
Hall of Famer
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Avon Lake, Ohio
Posts: 4,340
Send a message via Yahoo to hammerdownnow
Did you make sure the blade was very clean? Acetone first, grease cutting dish soap scrub, then do not touch the blade with hands after. That is the part I always forget.


__________________
"Many are chosen, but few are Pict"
"The doer alone, learneth" NT Neo-Devo
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 03-04-2005, 03:59 AM
sleepy sleepy is offline
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oklahoma City, OK.
Posts: 86
Freshly sanded, palmolive dish soap, comet, then palmolive dish soap, dried with paper towels, didn't touch with hands into vinegar. When I took it out and neutralized with baking soda alot of the areas that hadn't turned gray/black did then but still incomplete coverage. Do I need to sand back down and start back at square one before acetone, dish soap, etch? Thank you for the help hammerdownnow i do appreciate it.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 03-04-2005, 04:28 AM
AwP AwP is offline
Master
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 774
What are you using for your etchant, the creme of tartar stuff? I'm not very familier with crewwear, it might have properties that make etching difficult, like stainlessness. One thing I noticed though is that you said one side was effected and the other not. Did you have it laying flat in the etchant? You want to have it vertical so both sides etch evenly, either on the edge, on the spine, or point down. Etching is often a two steps forward one step back kinda thing, repeated etchings with cleaning off the oxides in between often gets better results then just one etch.


__________________
~Andrew W. "NT Cough'n Monkey" Petkus
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 03-04-2005, 08:00 AM
KandS_KNIVES KandS_KNIVES is offline
Skilled
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Waco,TX
Posts: 381
I have worked with cruwear and it is a beast, after HTreatment. First try handsanding to 400 or 600 grit, opening the grain. Try to etch again with muriatic, be sure to clean well before. I have never been able to get a dark etch on cruwear, just light to medium gray. Cruwear has some additives in the the steel which make it very hard to etch, but make it a one heck of a steel. Please let us know how it goes.


__________________
Ken (wwjd)
http://www.wacoknives.com
"One Nation Under God"

Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 03-04-2005, 01:42 PM
sleepy sleepy is offline
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oklahoma City, OK.
Posts: 86
Ok I rubbed with steel wool, then dishsaop, then acetone, dishsoap again, etch, neutralize. got much better coverage this time but have some areas that are still bright and shiny. Mostly lines and a few splotches. They seem to be the same pattern of the discoloration after the HT. Anybody got suggestions on how to get rid of these? I sanded to bright shiny metal after HT. Do i need to sand more or is this fixable. The muratic didn't do anymore than the vinegar did. Thank again everyone for the help.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 03-05-2005, 09:58 AM
AwP AwP is offline
Master
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 774
It could be that due to blade geometry or something, the blade self diff-hardened. If there's diff hardening, even if there's not a clean hamon line, the hard and soft parts will respond to the etch differently. I donno for sure if that's the problem, but it kinda sounds like it to me. You might just not be able to get an even etch on it.


__________________
~Andrew W. "NT Cough'n Monkey" Petkus
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 03-05-2005, 02:22 PM
sleepy sleepy is offline
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oklahoma City, OK.
Posts: 86
well i finally got it to etch. the streaks are still there just a little different shade then the rest of the blade. you have to look very close at the right angle to see them now. kind of a neat pattern this way. blade is a medium charcoal grey/black fairly dark color. thanks a bunch for all the help folks. KandS_knives i don't know if this is darker than what you've been getting but if you want to know what all i did let me know. again thanks for all the help everyone.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
blade, forge, knife, knives


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:44 PM.




KNIFENETWORK.COM
Copyright © 2000
? CKK Industries, Inc. ? All Rights Reserved
Powered by ...

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
The Knife Network : All Rights Reserved