|
|
|
|
|
|
||
|
|
|
|
||
|
|||||||
| The Outpost This forum is dedicated to all who share a love for, and a desire to make good knives, and have fun doing it. We represent a diverse group of smiths and knifemakers who bring numerous methods to their craft. |
 |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
10-31-2005, 05:30 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
sway-back
Didja ever go thru a period of time where everyhing that goes in the forge comes out crookeder than a deer's hind leg?? Geeezz!!
Near finished blades, ruff stock, new stock, you name it. I think I better get my boots on , whistle up the dogs and go huntin'. bruce __________________ If it isn't sharp it's only a screwdriver. ------------- Birdog Forge,com 
|
|
#2
10-31-2005, 07:51 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
After forging (and careful straightening) I normalize 2X and anneal once. When I'm done working it in the shop prior to quenching, I normalize again. Stresses are built up in the steel when grinding which it helps to relieve before "shocking" it in the quench--also have your quenching medium at about 120 degrees F.
And if you want to get a good fight going, we can talk about having your blade pointing true north during the quench--which works for me.  Guess the gauntlet's been thrown down now.
|
|
#3
10-31-2005, 10:23 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
__________________ ______________ Regards, Jason
|
|
#5
10-31-2005, 04:17 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
The last in a series of mishaps, I cut out a coupla 2x14 strips from a saw blade, stuck them in the gasser, then into the vermiculite overnight. Took them out the next evening.... warped! I eeven had my mink sox on too. Grrrr
__________________ If it isn't sharp it's only a screwdriver. ------------- Birdog Forge,com
|
|
#6
10-31-2005, 06:06 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
I never "shove" my blades into the vermiculite since that is almost a guaranteed warp. I scoop a five gallon bucket worth out of the ice chest which is half of the volume. After I heat up a chunk of leaf spring to red it goes inot the vermiculite and then a 1/2" layer of it over the spring. Then I put the blade in after reaching CT and pour the five gallon bucket over the blade. That way the blade does not experience any mechanical stresses. It may be a few extra steps but not as complex as trying to straighten a blade that allready was straight to start with. I hate redundancy!
|
|
#7
10-31-2005, 08:29 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
I just ease them in to the vermiculite and have never really had a problem with warpage. To lazy to do it the Finnigan way.
Hey Dana, when you get dizzy and fall down, do you always fall to the North? Heh, heh, heh. __________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H
|
|
#8
10-31-2005, 09:39 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
sway-back
If they're like the 3 foot gang saw blades I use they are tensioned or cupped by peening them on one side so when they get torqued they will run straight.tThat alone has them set to warp when cut into strips.
__________________ Glenn
|
|
#9
11-01-2005, 05:42 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
This particular blade was a 52 incher. Don't ahve this problem when cutting blade shapes with a torch.
Like I said, everything from 2 1/2" on up are goin' south on me.Any and all widths. Mebbe I should change hats, eh? __________________ If it isn't sharp it's only a screwdriver. ------------- Birdog Forge,com
|
|
| Tags |
| blade, forge, forging, knife |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|
Linear Mode
