Slipjoint Bolster question........

[beebee58]

First I want to thank everyone that helps us "newbies".


I'm in the process of building my 2nd Slipjoint and have a problem that I'm sure someone can answer for me.

My problem is when soldering my bolsters on: they move and then I have to take them to the mill to align them again. I don't know if I need to clamp them first (worried that the solder won't wick because the joint is too tight) ?
This last one I put 3/32 brass pin in the hole that I have drilled for the pivot pin, but during soldering I end up melting the brass in the hole along with flux flowing around it and now it's soldered in place. So I ground it flat and drilled it out. When doing it this way the bolster can still rotate and cause me too mill the flats again.
I have been using silversolder (hard) that has a high melting temp., so that I don't have to worry about loosening the solder joint while sanding.

Any thoughts and commits are always welcome


BB

[mike koller]

http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3468

Steve has a thread running that may be of help... sorry I have NOT read it all the way through myself, but I hope there may be answers to your question(s).

[DaveL]

You can use paste solder very well with this problem. Most bolsters are pinned and that would help. If you are melting brass, you are to intense with the heat. Study this some...

[Jpeterman]

On the slip joints I've done with bolsters I've used a pair of vise grips to clamp the bolster down on the liner. I like to scribe an reference mark on both liners to line the bolsters up when clamping. I also use a HSS drill in the pivot hole to keep everything lined up as well.

clamp the vise grip handle up in the vise keeping the bolster tilted at a slight angle, put a drop of flux in the corner and commence with the soldering. I like to use enough solder to see it drip from all the way around the bolster that way I'm pretty well sure all the flux is out of there. The drill bit comes out with a just few turns with a pair of pliers and i might need to go back through the hole to clean out some solder in there.

I'm not sure but it sounds like you are soldering the brass in place with everything else. Much by accident but that's what it seems like to me

-- James Peterman --

[beebee58]

Thanks Guys .................... you rock.....


Mike, I'm attempting to use a higher temp solder than 157, I might start using it when I run out of the materials that I have now.

James, yeah... soldering the brass pin in place has been one of my problems. I have read some other threads and think I might try some of the thoughts that have been suggested. I'm either going to use a old 3/32 drill or find some 3/32 stainless rod, and lightly coat them with oil prior to soldering.


Thanks again everyone,

BB

[Don Robinson]

I usually make my slipjoints with an integral frame, but I have soldered bolsters on the liners at times.

I put a 3/32 pin in the pivot hole, drill a 1/16" hole somewhere else on the bolster and that way I have 2 pins in each bolster. everything remains lined up. Coat the pins with vaseline or something to keep them from being soldered.

Coat the inside surface of the bolsters and liners with flux made to suit the 4% solder. Lay the liner and bolster flat on a firebrick. Cut small chips from low temp. silver solder (4%).Lay the solder chips around the front and sides of the bolsters. 3 or 4 solder chips is enough. Don't put any solder where the scale fits against the bolsters.
Using a small flame heat the bolster only, spreading the heat all around the top of the bolster.Watch the solder and chips. Remove the flame when the solder chips disappear under the bolster.

Soak the parts after soldering in a solution of baking soda for several hours to prevent flux from bleeding out later.

Make a 1/16 pin and peen it along with the pivot pin. If this method is used correctly the 1/16 pin won't show after peening. It must be made out of the same material as the bolster.

All that said, I hate to do this and prefer to use my milling machine to make integral liners for my slipjoints.

Forgive me for not replying sooner. I'm recovering from surgery.

[CWKnifeman]

I do what don does with a little bit of a twist,using either a 3/32 or 1/8 for the pivot and 1/16 pin for the holding pin. Using 275 Silver S. I coat the bolster with solder first with the 1/16 pin in place. then with the liner clamped put the two pieces togather - with the pivot pin in place for alignment. Press togather without clamping , then heat once the solder starts to flow use a small channellock to press togather and hold until cool. Thats the way that I used to do it. Now either I mill them out or spot wels them.

[Don Robinson]

How about that, Curtis! I spot weld some of mine too, but prefer integrals.