last try to get an answer

[Omega]

I read a thread on acid etching (but i cant remember by who ) in the post this individual used a special ink to write/draw his design then comes tha acid bath and he is left with a flat background and beautiful raised letters and designs. my question is what keeps the acid from eatting away at the side of the raised portions? im not sure im being totally clear but im just not sure how to explain the question any better


thanks

bill

[Jamey Saunders]

It will eat away at the sides, but just slightly. It's a function of surface area, and since the etch is a few thousandths deep, there's just not that much surface area for the acid to eat.

[Jeremy Krammes]

I'm pretty sure that Montejano posted that threat, but I can't seem to find it.

The last page of this thread talks about it. http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=25368


Jeremy

[Ray Cover Jr]

Omega,

The ink you are looking for is made by New England Graphics. It is a black acid resitant ink made for etching newspaper printing plates. It is really good stuff. I don't have their address. It has been so long since I have done acid etching that I have lost all those contacts. I remember that New England Graphics is the name of the company. Maybe a Google search will help you find them.

The acid will eat at the sides unless you carefully resist those between acid baths. That is why acid etshing always has a slightly ragged edge compared to a cut line.

Ray

[hammerdownnow]

Some acids have the tendency to eat straight down. For an etch to show clearly it does not have to be very deep. With your eyes closed you can barley feel it is raised. the color of the backround gives the illusion of depth. Like the pattern in damaskus.

[Shakudo]

the acid does eat at the sidewalls and undercuts the masked off areas to some degree. if you want to do a deep etch , the proper order of events is to etch, neutralize the metal and dry, reapply the resist to the etched walls and then put it back into the acid. this process is repeated until the proper depth is reached .

[Omega]

thanks for the help guys

[Blackspadeaxes]

Montejano. Hi I'm interested in knowing how to make the antacid ink your talking of. I'm in Australia and have tried to find a supplier but have had no luck.

I've been etching a mild steel test piece with hydrochloric acid with limit suscess any tips for types of acid and ratios would also be appricated.

Thank you blackspade axes.

[jimmontg]

Blackspadeaxes this thread is 12 years old. You might want to start a new thread explaining what you do now and where you would like to go. Also let folks know you're in Australia in case they don't notice your location. I'm a novice on acid etching if even enough to be called novice. I know about some stuff like etching damascus, not much else. A new thread may be appropriate as some of these guys are probably gone now.

[Blackspadeaxes]

Jimmontg oh thank you I didn't even realise. Thank you very much for the advise I'll create a new post.

[Andrew Garrett]

I used a brand new Sharpie to draw pictures on polished carbon steel blades.
I cleaned up my designs with a dry toothpick which easily and precisely removes the ink from the polished surface.
I then etched in ferric chloride and the FC did not penetrate the sharpie ink at all.

Spray with Windex to neutralize and remove the ink with alcohol and a paper towel.

I've attempted this three times. All were successful.

[Blackspadeaxes]

Hey Andy.

Thank you for the advise. I'll give it a try!

[jimmontg]

A sharpie? How much did you water down the Ferric acid if at all?

[Andrew Garrett]

I use the circuit board etchant from Radio Shack straight from the bottle on at least one. For most etching I run a 50% dilution with distilled water.

[Andrew Garrett]

New Sharpies leave a very thick coat of wet ink that levels itself nicely--no areas of 'see-thru'. That's what you want.