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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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W2, or 1084?
did clay heat treat, and water quench on what I thought was a W2 blade.....
*CLINK, Clink, clink,clink.....clink |
#2
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That's what happens when you water quench a high carbon steel in water. It sucks don't it. go ahead and finish the break to read your grain.
I ran across a guy who had beautiful hammons and asked him how he got them. He said he water quenched. So I tried it with the same result. As it turned out he said he had a 50% failure rate. If I'd known that I'd never tried it. Get some Parks 50, you'll get good results and wont ruin blades. |
#3
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Well, one question that immediately pops into my head is why did you *think* it was W2 as opposed to knowing what you had?
Even if it was W2 or 1084 you could have quenched in a fast pro oil and then it wouldn't have played that nasty little tune .... |
#4
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When I worked in the machine shop and I used their oven to HT an O1 knife I wrapped it with the stainless foil because I didn't want to have scale on it as I had finished it to 400 grit. I quenched it in water and you know what? The bloody begger still cracked.
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#5
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O-1 in water! That's really pushing it. That said, I can't recommend water or brine unless you can't find an oil that will do the trick. I've watched a program on the traditional making of a Japanese swords and the master sword smiths consider a 25% failure rate in water acceptable.
Doug __________________ If you're not making mistakes then you're not trying hard enough |
#6
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QUOTE: the master sword smiths consider a 25% failure rate in water acceptable.
And possibly optimistic .... |
#7
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I just thought the foil would slow the heat exchange down between the O1 blade and water and I was wrong, but to quench in oil you can't put it in foil as that does slow the heat exchange down just a little too much.
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#8
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I quenched my last two 1095 blades in brine. No breaks or cracks but some pretty significant warping. I got both blades straightened but one had a "wave" in the edge. I tried everything and in the end resorted to hammering it out on an anvil. Well it broke. So while I've only quenched about 4 or 5 blades in brine, I'm pretty much done with brine.
And more and more just sticking with 0-1 __________________ Find me on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/gpopecustomknives/ Gloria In Excelsis Deo!! |
#9
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never used w2 but with 1084 I have used canola and parks 50 stainless only in park 50 .....I have never had a blade crack in the quench
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#10
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__________________ Find me on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/gpopecustomknives/ Gloria In Excelsis Deo!! |
#11
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Well, the good news....the grain looks good. The bad news...you can see the grain.
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#12
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Parks 50 may cost a little more, but it's cheaper than all the time wasted forging and grinding blades that break.
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#13
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OUCH!!
Doug __________________ If you're not making mistakes then you're not trying hard enough |
#14
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Quote:
Easier and cheaper still, is to abandone the 1095 and switch exclusively to 0-1 and Canola. __________________ Find me on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/gpopecustomknives/ Gloria In Excelsis Deo!! |
#15
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__________________ Find me on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/gpopecustomknives/ Gloria In Excelsis Deo!! |
Tags |
1084, 1095, anvil, blade, blades, carbon, edge, forging, grinding, heat, heat treat, japanese, knife, knives, making, o-1, quenched, scale, shop, stainless, steel, traditional, warping, water, wave |
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