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The Display Case A place to post your latest knives and creations. Let the Knife Network community see your work first! |
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#1
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New dagger
Mad a new dagger. Did made a really special sheath to this one.
Materials: Mammoth scales and mammoth ivory. Sheath: Leather and willow burl. Total length; 13,8 inch |
#2
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Wow-really spectacular and great work of art!!!
When I see pictures of knives like this one I think about finding a new hobby for myself... Thanks for the look, Jens. |
#3
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Simply stunning - and great pics as well - thanks for sharing.
Cheers, Roger |
#4
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Nice! What kind of wood is that?
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#5
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#6
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Andre-
Every time you post it gets more and more difficult to come up with words that do your work justice...With this stunning dagger it's getting to be downright impossible to come up with anything other than those nearly inaudible murmers to myself of "Oh my..." Simply amazing... Dennis Greenbaum Yeah Baby! PS. Thanks again for that great photoshop tip. |
#7
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Andre,
I'm very excited to be receiving this. It will be fun to see how people react to "the next one." I still owe you a response in email. Gabe |
#8
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another geourgeous piece, andre', and an interesting sheath, too. i was looking for, but couldn't find, a previous post where you might have explained how you stabilize the cracks in the ivory - like the one in the guard.
thanx . p.s. gabe - you lucky dog! __________________ wayne things get better with age ... i'm approaching magnificent |
#9
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Quote:
Regarding the cracks... I do not stabilize the cracks on the ivory if they are not too wide. I use superglue and activator and pure it into the cracks if it?s so. That usually prevents it from cracking more. I have learned that fossils cracks anyway more or less, so the best thing you can do is to force it to crack as little as possible. It?s always hard for me to send ivory from the cold climate here in Sweden to a warmer in the US for example. The sun just chocks the poor ivory and in it?s frustration it cracks a little bit. However to prevent it from doing it I look into that it?s all dry when I start working it. Work carefully and do not overheat. When the handle is ready put it into a bath of oil and have it there for 1-3 days. Pick it up and let the oil work its way into the ivory for a couple of days and after that polish. The oil will also bring forth the natural pattern. It will give a good protection to the ivory. If it is not enough make a protective surface of wax on the ivory. It will be removed after a while, but it hopefully have got used to its new climate and when that happens and it will not crack. But if you a working in 30.000 years old ivory you get used to cracks and learn to work it carefully to prevent it from cracking more. The crack in the guard was very wide before I put it in the oil. Maybe 0,2 mm or so (I felt it very well). But after the oil it disappeared. You can still see it, but you can?t feel it. See it as a beauty mark |
#10
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Very nice work.
I realy like the sheath. Doug __________________ Doug Timbs DARK WATER KNIVES |
#11
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Andre
You never cease to amaze!! I was fortunate to get one of your finished blades off of ebay and you keep making it harder for me to do the blade justice with my handle treatment. The bar just keeps being raised ! Brian |
#12
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thanx for your response, andre'. can you elaborate on the type of oil you use for the soak? i am guessing that you use mineral oil, but i have read that some use other kinds of oil/wax or whatever to protect ivory.
. i appreciate you sharing your experience with this. __________________ wayne things get better with age ... i'm approaching magnificent |
#13
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#14
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thanx, andre'. looking forward to the results of your experiments.
__________________ wayne things get better with age ... i'm approaching magnificent |
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