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Old 10-21-2016, 01:38 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: ny
Posts: 1,440
re HT 1080/15n20

hey guys to I have a small piece of Damascus that I made a long time ago and it been just sittin around so I decided to do something with its made from 1084 and 15n20 so I cant remember if I hted it I dint think I did actually but when I was drilling a hole in the tang (so I could loop a wire in it for part of the ht ) it seemed hard to drill Not quite as hard as I would suspect as if I had HT ed it but it was harder than "soft stocksteel" so I thought maybe it could have hardened a lil bit in the process of forge weling the billet togathe BUT I am not positive it was a while ago so maybe I did ht it either way I want to ht it again just so I KNOW I did it so I know with other steels you would have to go through all the annealing stages before re thing but for some reason I THINK I remember someone saying with 1084 you don't neec to do the annealing as its a forgiving steel so I remember right?? or do I have to anneal it?
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Old 10-21-2016, 02:10 PM
damon damon is offline
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: NE Tennessee
Posts: 409
get you some carbide drill bits already, and you wont have to worry about this... youll just be able to drill the hole and keep going.

run a file across it and thatll tell you if its hardened or not.

or just send the steel to one of us, (with return shipping) and we will check it out and tell you if its hardened or not.
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Old 10-21-2016, 02:30 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: ny
Posts: 1,440
damon...I have carbide drills...what happened was since I don't remember hThing it I went to drill the hole (I use this hole after it comes out of oil and goes into liquicd nitrogen I slip a wire through it so I can hang the blade in the dewar) so thinking this steel was soft I went to drill that hole with a regular bit (like I do when ever its soft no need for carbide reg. bit will go right through) the regular bit started no problem then bogged down like the steel was hard. so I took a carbide bit and finished the hole but the carbide bit went though much easier and quicker than usually if its hard. AND yes I did check it with a file and between what the file did and what the drill bits did I came to the conclusion (as I said ) that its deffinitly harder than "soft" steel is but not as hard as I think it should be if HTed ANYWAy point is I think the steel is slightly hard but not as hard as I would like it and no I don't need some one else to tell me if its hard or not that was not the question the question was if I HT it again do I have to anneal it... if it was 440c or cpms35vn yeh deffintily anneal but I remember hearing that 1084 doesn't always need to be annealed
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Old 10-21-2016, 02:55 PM
jmccustomknives jmccustomknives is offline
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Alabama
Posts: 554
Just normalize it and it will be fine. Did you make the billet? If so how many layers? How much time did you spend welding it? Sometimes if one takes too much time or folds too many times you can get appreciable carbon loss, I doubt that's the problem. Just normalize and re try your heat treat.
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Old 10-21-2016, 03:45 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: ny
Posts: 1,440
alright thanks JM that is what I needed to know. yes I made the billet as I said it was a while ago I don't remer how long it took me to do and its a very low layer count I was going for a bold pattern cant remember the number tho. either way I am going to go normalize and see how it comes out thanks again....
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1084, 440c, bee, billet, blade, carbon, damascus, drill, file, forge, heat, heat treat, knife, made, make, pattern, problem, small, steel, tang, welding

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