The Folding Knife (& Switchblade) Forum The materials, techniques and the designing of folding knives. |
04-11-2006, 03:53 AM
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Skilled
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: victoria, Australia
Posts: 649
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heat treat the lock back lock bar?
hey guys, i was just wondering what the norm was, am i suposed to heat treat the lock bar of a lock back folder, i would think yes, but the tight arse in me hopes no. ha ha
brett
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04-11-2006, 08:30 AM
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Founding Member / Moderator
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Wauconda, WA
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Tell the tight arse that if the lock bar bends over time due to being too soft that it's much more difficut, time consuming, and expensive to repair the problem than it is to do it right in the first place.
Heat treat it....
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04-11-2006, 08:41 AM
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Hall of Famer
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Brownsville, Texas
Posts: 4,873
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Right on, Ray!
Hi, Brett.
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04-11-2006, 06:30 PM
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Skilled
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: victoria, Australia
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i was afraid you would say that, i always treated them in the past but that was carbo stel ad i did it my self, but carbo does't work so well in folders(well mine at least) so i am going to go stainless, but that means i have to pay to have the blade treated ad then pay more for the bar. oh well i guess some times you just have to
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04-12-2006, 12:18 AM
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Master
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Burleson, Texas
Posts: 851
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With High Carbon Steel you just heat treat and temper the same as with the blade, even with slip-joints out of damascus it's the same, depending upon the type of H.C.S. you might temper the spring of a slip-joint at 25 to 50 degrees higher. In slip-joints the springs get sloppy if not close to the same tempering. With lock backs it should be basically the same.
__________________
Curtis Wilson
Wilson's Custom Knives, Engraving, and Scrimshaw
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04-12-2006, 03:51 AM
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Skilled
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: victoria, Australia
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the problem was the high carbon ones rusted like theres no tomorow, im not sure if it was the kind of steel(recycled mystery) or maybe the finish i gave them(crappy) allowed the moisture places to settle. so im gonna go all stainless from now on, except on fixed blades which are easier to oil.
brett
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04-12-2006, 08:19 AM
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Founding Member / Moderator
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If I understand you correctly, you're saying that your un-heat treated carbon parts rusted very easily. That's pretty normal. Heat treated parts - both carbon and stainless - are more rust resistant than annealed steel .....
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04-12-2006, 06:38 PM
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Skilled
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: victoria, Australia
Posts: 649
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no, i treated the high carbon steel. i always treated everything in the past because it cost me nothing, its just that i pay to have stainless treated that has brought up this whole question of if its necessary or not, i guess in the end, whats an extra $8 in the grand scheme of things.
brett
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04-18-2006, 11:45 PM
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Skilled
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Join Date: Jun 2002
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The trouble with carbon steel in a folder from my point of view is that it's a lot harder to maintian than a fixed blade. Of course I say that and am working on a damascus linner lock rite now. The thing is a folder has a lot of noks and crannies that are hard to keep clean all the time. Then again if you don't mind a little extra care and the patina that goes with carbon steel they were used for years.
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04-19-2006, 12:43 PM
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Skilled
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 449
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ATS 34 makes a wonderful spring and lock bar for that matter. The spring would be heat treated a little differently, but do the lock bar just like the blade and you will be fine.
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