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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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grizzly grinder misalignment
I have gotten my grizzly G1015 grinder and it is all put together but I am having an issue with tracking. I can get the pulley on top and the drive wheel so they are level but the top pulley and the platen are not lined up with the drive wheel. I am bad at explaining but it seems like the shaft that the drive wheel goes on is either not long enough or was machined wrong. when I assemble the it per the instructions the nut that hods the drive wheel on will only go a couple of turns and it is completely tight. grizzly instructed me to remove the outer washer so just the nut is contacting the drive wheel. this solved the fact that the nut would not go all of the way on however the drive wheel does not line up with the platen and top pulley. here are a couple pics. if anyone is able to take a measurement of the shaft on their grizzly I would love to compare our measurements.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxh...ew?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxh...ew?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxh...ew?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxh...ew?usp=sharing Last edited by gkyle840; 11-16-2016 at 05:47 PM. |
#2
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I haven't seen every Grizzly grinder ever produced but I suspect they are all pretty much like that at first. Mine was manufactured over 20 years ago and it was like that. There is a reason why some grinders cost $2,000 and the Griz doesn't. Don't sweat it, just do what needs doing to fix it up.
First, the platen needs to line up with the drive wheel, more or less, but the idler wheel does not. In fact, my idler wheel was usually about half out of line with the platen and tilted at a fairly extreme angle. That's what it took to make it track. That's OK, the work gets done on the platen and sometimes on the wheel and that's what is important. If you need to move the platen over, as I had to do, just get a handful of washers from the hardware store and put them under the screws that hold on the platen. It may take a few days but you'll get the bugs out .... |
#3
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ok, will try the washers on the platen! thanks Ray
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#4
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I have shimmed the platen some and tried every adjustment on the machine. I just cant get the belt to track in the middle of the main drive wheel. it also wants to jump around a bit. I am using the belt that came with the machine as it has flown off numerous times and I dont want to ruin one of my belts from trugrit.
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#5
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I'm sorry Kyle, but I should have told you to read the reviews on the Grizzly. You need to be skillful to adjust and fix its tracking problems. I have read the reviews and many folks have tracking probs with the Grizz. Next 2x72 is the Kalamazoo and though it doesn't have tracking probs it is underpowered for a 2x72. Also has some platen problems. You are just going to find issues with the lower priced units, but some guys around here should know how to fix them. Feel free to ask.
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#6
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tracking problems on grizzly grinder
Solved my problems with the shims mentioned earlier, increasing the belt tension and lots of playing. Belt tension/tracking problem was addressed in several areas on this and other web sites. Ran a small arm off the bolt on back of upper assembly to double adjustable bolt connected to two heavy springs. Someone indicated that proper belt tension was around 25-35 lbs. I adjust tension through the adjustable bolt.
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#7
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I read the manual again and found you could grind down the edges of the rubber drive wheel it helps. I did this and got it tracking good but my drive wheel has a very noticing wobble now.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxh...w?usp=drivesdk |
#8
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Unfortunately, when it comes to the Grizzly grinder (and many other less expensive grinders) it can be a life long struggle trying to make them work "right". The tolerances, fit up, and overall refinement are simply missing, and there's just nothing a person can do to change it.
It usually boils down to using it the best you can with it's flaws, or learn a lesson from it, and start saving for a "good" machine. Over the years I've had no less then three people who "gave" me Grizzly grinders.....they all thought they were doing me a big favor. I thanked each of them, and the next time I went to the scrapyard, so did each of those grinders. I know it's a hard pill to swallow, but do yourself a favor. Save you pennies, and buy something like a KMG, Bader, or one of the other "top shelf" grinders. You won't regret it, you'll have a grinder that will likely last your lifetime, and if you do ever need/want to sell it, you'll get very close to your money back out of it. __________________ WWW.CAFFREYKNIVES.NET Caffreyknives@gmail.com "Every CHOICE has a CONSEQUENCE, and all your CONSEQUENCES are a result of your CHOICES." |
#9
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If they still send the same belt with the Griz that I got with mine it is longer than 72" and not very good quality anyway. Put one of your new belts on, if it allows you to shorten the boom arm it should make a difference to the tracking.
Ed's right that the Griz isn't a top of the line machine but at a third the price I know you weren't expecting that. Even so, a lot of knives get made on them. Every problem the Griz might have has been solved by somebody, probably in more than one way. There is lots of info online on those solutions. If I understand correctly, you have two current problems: the belt doesn't sit in the middle of the drive wheel and the wheel wobbles a little. As I said before, the work gets done on the platen. If the belt is on the platen that's what counts. However, as I recall, there is a heavy steel washer with a domed center that sits between the wheel and the motor. On mine, I turned the washer around to change the position of the wheel. As for the wobble, the Griz wheels are badly balanced, no doubt about that. Eventually, I replaced my wheel with a better wheel and it was smooth as silk after that. But that was a year or so later, before that the wheel vibrating a little didn't affect what I was doing on the platen... |
#10
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I did get the belt tracking straight. The issue was with the rubber Drive wheel. It was dished out in the center instead of being flat so I turn the grinder on and use a file to flatten it which got the belt tracking correctly but caused a wobble. I do have a new belt on so I will just ignore the wobble and start doing some grinding.
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#11
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Well look at it this way Kyle, my first grinder was a 3x21 belt sander clamped to a picnic bench. I made quite a few knives with that until the metal dust shorted out the motor. Actually worked surprisingly well if you didn't mind at the time the finest belt you could buy was 120 grit. So you're doing OK.
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#12
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Grizzly is sending me a new main Drive wheel to fix the vibration. The only issue I was running into while grinding was the knife with jerk up and down when I put very much pressure on the Belt.
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#13
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QUOTE: when I put very much pressure on the Belt.
Well, don't do that. Seriously, you don't need much pressure at all to grind a blade if you are using sharp belts (hence my earlier advice to treat belts like they were free). If you try to use a belt that has gone dull you need more pressure, more pressure means you can't hold a clean grind line and a whole lot of pressure can cause the belt to do unpleasant things like jerk around .... |
Tags |
2x72, angle, art, assemble, back, belt, belts, file, g10, grind, grinder, hardware, how to, kalamazoo, knives, make, screws, sell, small, solutions, steel, store, washers, web, wobble |
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