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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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My First Hammon attempt...
Well, I thought before I tried to do a hammon on the large Bowie I'm working on, I Should probably try it on something first. So I decided to risk the Blade I did the file work on the handle. I coated with a thin layer of furnace cement diluted with water. Then coated the blade and spine with the undiluted cement and let it dry. Then I just did my usual heat treat on my home made Coal forge. After two 2 hour tempers I had to run back to work so Hurried and sanded one side a little and rubbed some lemon juice on it. After 10 minutes I knew I had SOMETHING happening.
So I took it back home and Tried some heated Vinegar. This is after 2 soaks for 10 minutes. All I have is 2000 grit wet dry sand paper so I'm not sure how to finish it off But I'm pretty pumped with how it looks. The hammon followed my clay coating exactly. Almost wish I had tried some detail. Now to see how it comes out. Last edited by ricky_arthur; 01-09-2013 at 12:18 AM. |
#2
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Right on man! Looks good to me one thing I am confused about tho, your edge is lighter colored then the spine but the ones I did the edge is darker then the spine. Are there any pros that could elaborate on this a little bit?
I had good luck finishing mine to 400 before the etch. During and after the etch I used trizact 3000 grit paper to lightly sand it. __________________ J, Saccucci Knives, JSK |
#3
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Not bad Ricky, you'll find it hard to get much more detail at the transition with cement. Clay/ash mix will give a more defined line. What steel did you use? What quenchant? Thicker blades will usually have a "muddier" differential due to the heat retention in the thicker areas.
Just an observation and based solely on the pictures above....are you sure you are getting all the scratches from each successive grit in the sanding process out? If so then use the 2000 until it wears/dries out and becomes more of a polishing pad. The hammons that "pop" are taken to a very high polish in grits (but not buffed on a wheel). The Japenese used high grade water stones that go way beyond 2000 grit. M99, it can depend on the steel used and the etchant type and strength. __________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
#4
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I like that the spine is darker than the edge, what steel is that?
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#5
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It's 1095. I use a stabilized Canola oil as a quenchant.
I'm going re-sand it down and try it again from 400 grit. Also 10 minute soaks are too long, too much etch. |
#6
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Sweet! That's one of the reasons I'm building a mini-forge. That looks great on the blade.
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#7
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I used 1084 for mine and did a couple quick etched in ferric chloride. When I did a hamon on 1095 I got the same results, a dark hardened area and a grey spine.
__________________ J, Saccucci Knives, JSK |
Tags |
1095, back, blade, bowie, building, edge, etch, file, file work, forge, hamon, handle, heat treat, home, home made, how to, knife, made, man, retention, sand, steel |
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