MEMBER ITEMS FOR SALE
Custom Knives | Other Knives | General Items
-------------------------------------------
New Posts | New PhotosAll Photos



Go Back   The Knife Network Forums : Knife Making Discussions > Custom Knife Discussion Boards > Knife Making Discussions > The Newbies Arena

The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 04-02-2012, 08:54 AM
Dan308's Avatar
Dan308 Dan308 is offline
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 37
Drilling Hard Steel help

Can someone help me out with drilling 3/16 holes in hard steel? I'm using tin coated bits with oil and slow speed and they are screeching and dull/breaking. My drill speed is slow, cutting oil is used. I heat to critical and cool the steel. then grind and shape. It's the small holes holes that are problems

I switched to cobalt drills. It made it easier but I can tell they won't last long. Any opinions on going to solid carbide spade bits?


__________________
Dan
www.dtknives.com
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 04-02-2012, 09:44 AM
Doug Lester Doug Lester is offline
Hall of Famer
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Decatur, IL
Posts: 2,578
First of all, what steel are you using? It would help to know. If you haven't been able to draw the temperature in the spine to soften the steel you may need to go to carbide bits. The Carbide Connection is one source that I remember of suppliers with carbide bits in all the sizes. Many of the knife making suppliers carry carbide bits in fractional sizes.

Doug


__________________
If you're not making mistakes then you're not trying hard enough
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 04-02-2012, 11:02 AM
Ray Rogers's Avatar
Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
Founding Member / Moderator
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Wauconda, WA
Posts: 9,816
The only way to drill really and truly hard steel is with a carbide drill or a carbide tipped drill. Carbide spade drills are limited to the depth of the hole they can make, a 3/16 drill can only drill about 3/16 deep. I realize that your blade is probably no thicker than 3/16 but that is still operating right at the limit. The best tool for the job is a screw machine length straight flute carbide drill. The cost more but they last longer and work much better leaving glass smooth holes of the nominal size. You can get them at MSC or Enco or McMaster-Carr or most anywhere commercial tooling is sold. You do not need to use lubricant with them and I prefer to use them at low rpms....


__________________

Your question may already have been answered - try the Search button first!






Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 04-02-2012, 05:20 PM
Dan308's Avatar
Dan308 Dan308 is offline
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 37
Thanks I'm looking into screw machine length straight flute carbide drill right now.


__________________
Dan
www.dtknives.com
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 04-02-2012, 11:13 PM
TexasJack's Avatar
TexasJack TexasJack is offline
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Southeast Texas
Posts: 2,880
By the way, those aren't "tin" coated; they're TiN (titanium nitride). I only point that out to avoid having somebody show up and ask if tin isn't soft.


__________________
God bless Texas! Now let's secede!!
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 04-03-2012, 08:08 AM
Ed Caffrey's Avatar
Ed Caffrey Ed Caffrey is offline
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Great Falls, Montana, USA
Posts: 4,325
Send a message via AIM to Ed Caffrey Send a message via Yahoo to Ed Caffrey
I replied to this thread on another forum, but highly recommend an annealing step....it will not only make drilling and working the steel easier, it will add some benefits to your completed blades.


__________________
WWW.CAFFREYKNIVES.NET

Caffreyknives@gmail.com

"Nobody cares what you know.....until they know you care."
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 04-03-2012, 10:33 AM
Dan308's Avatar
Dan308 Dan308 is offline
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 37
Thanks Ed, I spread this around to get opinions. Better annealing steps and Solid Carbide seems the way to go


__________________
Dan
www.dtknives.com
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 04-03-2012, 07:58 PM
Ray Rogers's Avatar
Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
Founding Member / Moderator
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Wauconda, WA
Posts: 9,816
Annealing is the way to go, but if you anneal you probably won't need the carbide drill - that's why I said use carbide when the steel is really and truly hard. Annealed steel, by definition, isn't hard and should drill easily ....


__________________

Your question may already have been answered - try the Search button first!






Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
blade, knife, knife making, steel


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
hole in hard steel dcfolders Heat Treating and Metallurgy 6 01-14-2008 08:54 AM
O - 1 Oil Hard Steel? imahuser Knife Network Community 1 03-03-2007 04:37 PM
drilling big holes in steel SkaerE Tool Time 15 11-10-2003 08:01 PM
Drilling Stainless Steel Adamc133 The Newbies Arena 3 04-06-2002 09:20 AM
hard and soft steel etching? crowknives The Newbies Arena 11 03-27-2002 08:11 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:44 PM.




KNIFENETWORK.COM
Copyright © 2000
? CKK Industries, Inc. ? All Rights Reserved
Powered by ...

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
The Knife Network : All Rights Reserved