MEMBER ITEMS FOR SALE
Custom Knives | Other Knives | General Items
-------------------------------------------
New Posts | New PhotosAll Photos



Go Back   The Knife Network Forums : Knife Making Discussions > Custom Knife Discussion Boards > Knife Making Discussions > The Newbies Arena

The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #31  
Old 02-09-2014, 05:44 AM
Crex's Avatar
Crex Crex is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Acworth, GA and/or Hanging Dog, NC
Posts: 3,583
Ray's pointed out all the possible reasons I could think of. Maybe USAK messed up (they don't usually, but then they didn't "make" the steel). Pretty sure they'd replace it with good stock if it proves not to be 1084.
All this pretty much clarifies the need for proper and extensive testing of the steels used whether store bought or recycled. Otherwise you do not know.
Glad you are having fun with it and learning. Part of the process.


__________________
Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith
Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member
Knifemakers Guild, voting member
Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts
C Rex Custom Knives

Blade Show Table 6-H
Reply With Quote
  #32  
Old 02-09-2014, 01:12 PM
RHammer RHammer is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Lewiston, Utah
Posts: 25
Carl, would it be a better to purchase directly from NJ Steel Baron when it is available?
Reply With Quote
  #33  
Old 02-10-2014, 04:57 AM
Crex's Avatar
Crex Crex is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Acworth, GA and/or Hanging Dog, NC
Posts: 3,583
I really like dealing with Aldo (very directly). He's at the Blade Show every year here in Atlanta and I hit him up for 1084, if he's got it, first thing. He's usually only a few rows away from my table. However, they are shaking things up with the booths and tables this year so I'll have to hunt him down this time.

Seems to be a big push on the 1084 the past two years so it's best to call early and often.


__________________
Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith
Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member
Knifemakers Guild, voting member
Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts
C Rex Custom Knives

Blade Show Table 6-H
Reply With Quote
  #34  
Old 02-11-2014, 04:44 PM
mete's Avatar
mete mete is offline
Master
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: NY State
Posts: 777
The quenching temperature seems a bit low. Typically the quench temperature should be about 75 F above the Curie temperature [1440 F].
Proper terms would help us understand you Normalize is what you do before the rest of HT. So it's normalize [if necessary] ,bring above critical temperature and air cool.That's normally done two to three times.
Then harden .After quench temper at your choice , maybe 400 F to 500F one to three times depending on the steel --more complex , more tempers --2 hours per temper.
Properly done 1084 will give you a fine blade !
Reply With Quote
  #35  
Old 02-11-2014, 10:36 PM
RHammer RHammer is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Lewiston, Utah
Posts: 25
Based on my research, it looks like I can anneal the 1084 samples I have already made by heating to 75 F above A3 (about 1500F) and allowing them to cool inside the oven after it has been turned off. After they are annealed I can re-heat treat.

Looking at the temp chart for 1084 I think I will try to get it up to 1500F to quench.

I read that you may or may not need to normalize. What would make you need to normalize instead of just quenching then doing the temper process??
Reply With Quote
  #36  
Old 02-11-2014, 11:11 PM
Doug Lester Doug Lester is offline
Hall of Famer
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Decatur, IL
Posts: 2,612
I had to go back and read how you are making your blades, evidently by stock removal. I don't think that the 1084 that Tracy carries is any different than what Aldo carries. If it's the same that Also carries it has 0.876 carbon and 0.153 chromium and some manganese and traces of other elements it's not the 1084 that shows up on some other data sheets.

A long annealing in your forge as you describe carries the risk of causing the carbides to clump. You may get by with the 1500? soak. Try a blade that way and snap it after tempering to take a look at how the grain is. If it's a fine gray surface that doesn't show individual grains then you should be ok.

If you want to relieve stress in the steel normalize. Even if you are doing stock removal grinding can put stresses into the blade.

Doug


__________________
If you're not making mistakes then you're not trying hard enough
Reply With Quote
  #37  
Old 02-13-2014, 12:03 AM
RHammer RHammer is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Lewiston, Utah
Posts: 25
Thanks for the help I will try this out when I get a few minutes
Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
1084, bee, blade, brass, cold, edge, file, forge, full tang, handle, harden, heat, knife, knives, make, material, post, quenched, rebar, rod, scale, steel, tang, temper, vise


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:41 PM.




KNIFENETWORK.COM
Copyright © 2000
? CKK Industries, Inc. ? All Rights Reserved
Powered by ...

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
The Knife Network : All Rights Reserved