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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 02-07-2015, 08:56 PM
Wydern Wydern is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Virginia
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decent band-saw for $100 to $200

The title says it all. I am looking for a decent band-saw that will last in the $100 to $200 range. Its generally going to be used for roughing out the outlines of knife blanks, so it will have to have a decent amount of horsepower.
Also, moderators, if this is in the wrong section, feel free to move it.
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  #2  
Old 02-07-2015, 09:01 PM
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ricky_arthur ricky_arthur is offline
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Dewalt portaband. Just outside your price. But much better than the harbor freight saw. I jammed my thumb into mine a couple days ago. That hurt alot. Lol. But from wood scales to 1/2 inch steel. It works great. Best tool money I've spent.
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  #3  
Old 02-07-2015, 09:12 PM
Wydern Wydern is offline
 
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Ok, but how did you mount it? Vertically or horizontally? Asking because the last time I got creative with a band saw It ended badly.

EDIT: or did you mount it? in most of the example images it looks like they just use it as a handheld.
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  #4  
Old 02-07-2015, 11:18 PM
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ricky_arthur ricky_arthur is offline
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I bought the cheapest swag table and mounted it to a pole in my shop.

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  #5  
Old 02-08-2015, 06:40 AM
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Crex Crex is offline
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Hard to beat a good portaband for versatility, power and footprint combination. Should be able to find several different versions of homemade wall/bench mounts with a little searching around here (better spot might be the "tool" section.
Tips: 1 - Don't scrimp on cheap blades. 2 - Make sure your "table" is mounted so it allows for easy blade replacement. 3 - Make sure your mount is strong and stable with no wobble or play.


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  #6  
Old 02-08-2015, 08:35 AM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Lots of guys do use the HF saw. It usually does take some tweaking but they get the job done. As for foot print, I simply cut the base off short on mine and mounted it to a wooden table I built, been using it that way for 20 years. Not saying its better than a Porta-Band, just saying it is a viable option ...


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  #7  
Old 02-09-2015, 06:22 AM
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There are trade offs everyway you go. Ray's set up is more stable with longer blades and blade life (usually, depending on usage of course), can handle larger objects and has the ability to adjust the lead stabilization guides for a smaller throat and more precise cutting.
All great plus's if you have the room in your shop (still a foot print thing). I would have the larger saw if I had the room in my shop. If you have a minimalistic small shop, the portability of the portaband can be very attractive. If mounted with thought it can be reasonably removed from the bench and stored out of way/out of site. Mine is set up to clamp in a big vise, so I can use it anywhere there is a big vise handy. I have been in many shops where they are mounted permanent on posts or beams leaving floor space for other things. Lots of options there.
They don't hold up as well for "production" cutting if you are going that route, but handle most cutting quite well. Have not seen one with any throat adjustment, so will have to deal with a bit more play in the blade/cut if putting pressure into the cut.
You will have to evaluate your needs and space limits to decide. Either will do very well for most knifemakers with a little creative thinking..


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  #8  
Old 02-10-2015, 08:07 PM
PoolQs PoolQs is offline
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I would agree with all the guys that if you can afford a DeWalt or Milwaukee Porta with a
Swag table ... go for it !!!

For myself, I only make 1 knife a month and that expense is out of my budget and needs.
I went for the cheaper side and went with HF and built a stand for it. Watched many tube
videos and went to different forums and got many inputs and how to build a stand for it.
As the guys say... don't skip on the blades for it. I use blades that is about 1/3 the cost of
the porta itself. I have cut approximately 25 blanks with it (SS and carbon) and a lot of
wood for scales. No Issues !!!! Here is what mine looks like:

[IMG][/IMG]

Good luck !!
Troy
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  #9  
Old 02-11-2015, 05:22 AM
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While you are correct on the prices of "new" portabands, a good used one is not all that hard to find.
I had gone through 3 of the HF's (one still sort of works), but the plastic hub gears don't last. Not knocking HF's saws, just don't hold up for me. I have managed to picked up one Porter-Cable and two deep throat Milwaukees for around $100 each. Just gotta be watching. They have more torque and a more solid framework....yet to break one and they see the same workload the HF's were subjected to. Just sayin'. I like the deep throats best, more clearance.

Looks like you have a good setup Troy. Mine is similar only no base stand. I used 1/2" aluminum plate for the table (had a scrap chunk just the right size). Would recommend if/when you change need to change yours out to make the slot thinner. Reduces the chance of those small wedge chunks falling part way through and jamming the blade. Happens enough to get aggravating. I made an "plug through" foot pedal, instant on instant off, for hand's free op. I find this works well for me (probably cheaper to buy than to make) think HF has one that's not all that expensive.

ps - didn't have to clean up your shop for the pic or us (we all know what a knife bench looks like).


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Blade Show Table 6-H
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  #10  
Old 02-11-2015, 08:35 AM
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C Craft C Craft is offline
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Here is my Dewalt portaband saw. I caught it on sale and paid about $210 - $220. I waited for some time to catch that sale! Remove the handle and built this up for it! I have it on a foot switch! I finally built this table for it and have never looked back!








This pic was taken before I moved the saw to its own table!



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With every custom knife I build I try to accomplish three things. I want that knife to look so good you just have to pick it up, feel so good in your hand you can't wait to try it, and once you use it, you never want to put it down !
If I capture those three factors in each knife I build, I am assured the knife will become a piece that is used and treasured by its owner!

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Last edited by C Craft; 02-11-2015 at 08:38 AM.
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  #11  
Old 02-12-2015, 04:55 AM
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Crex Crex is offline
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Man, that's just too fancy for words. Nice setup.
Had to make mine more portable so I could use it in different places (have indoor shop and out-back forging shed). I use it both places so it has to remain portable, but then I have big vices mounted in several places.


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Blade Show Table 6-H
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  #12  
Old 02-12-2015, 09:32 AM
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Ed Caffrey Ed Caffrey is offline
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I have the same Dewalt as C Craft does......but recently a local young knifemaker came to me and asked my opinion on
http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-De...W328/203164049

He had already purchased the saw, and after looking at it and running it, I'm convinced it will be the next "saw" that I purchase. What I found so interesting on this model is the way the motor is mounted......whereas my saw has a very limited space/clearnace to the inside of the blade versus running into the motor housing, this saw has about 2" of clearance! And with the simple way the blade guides are mounted (two bolts on each the bottom and top guides) it would be super easy to shim those guides to increase the clearnace. Its also about $75 less then what I paid for my saw several years ago. This addresses the only real complaint I've ever had with my current saw (side clearance), so once this one goes, its replacement will be the one in the link.


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  #13  
Old 02-12-2015, 10:11 AM
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DanCom DanCom is offline
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Great thread!

I just picked up a Porter-Cable Portaband 725 for cheap. Anyone got any ideas on mounting and making a table?

Thanks!

Dan
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  #14  
Old 02-13-2015, 05:36 AM
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Crex Crex is offline
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Looks like a good adaptable machine Ed, I like the deeper/wider throat.

Sadly, my experience with DeWalt is that whenever they come out with a "cheaper" model tool, it usually doesn't hold up like the older models. I have had a sidegrinder - junk switch design and handle screwed into plastic instead of metal; and a hammerdrill - doesn't hammer (excentric cam cracked), both lasted just past warranty. The recoil spring on my D sliding mitersaw broke (fixed that myself). So....been kind of shy of DeWalts ever since.

This can probably be said about any brand's "cheaper" offers, so comment is directed more at "cheaper" than brand name.
Hope the saw holds up well for anyone who buys/uses one. Like to see some mileage reports.

Dan - haven't tried to mount the P-C as it came with a good tote/travel box. Very solid machine. Each brand is slightly different in configuration. Just got to sit and study it a while before making a stand. Keep it simple but sturdy. Don't want wobble or movement while cutting steel.
Note: After looking closer at mine, I think it would have been easier to configure a stand for the P-C than my Milwaukee. Much flatter handle profile to work with, but the Mil's already mounted so not gonna mess with it.


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Blade Show Table 6-H

Last edited by Crex; 02-13-2015 at 05:44 AM.
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  #15  
Old 02-17-2015, 07:46 PM
J.Von J.Von is offline
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Just got this myself but the cost was $300 and a good time spent setting it up to cut in a fixed vertical position.

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band saw, bee, blade, blades, blanks, build, dewalt, easy, forging, handle, homemade, how to, knife, make, mobile, mount, pole, scales, shop, stabilization, steel, trade, vise, wobble, wood


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